Как сажать черную смородину осенью черенками: 2 лучших способа размножения смородины черенками осенью

Посадка смородины осенью черенками – как угодить ягоде?

Когда сажать смородину?

Эта культура очень любима дачниками, ведь из вкусных черных ягод делают множество заготовок на зиму. К тому же в ней содержится колоссальное количество витаминов, благодаря которым смородина – незаменимый продукт в народной медицине. Посадка растений, с одной стороны, задача относительна простая, а с другой, в этом вопросе нет мелочей, так как любой недочет отразится на качестве урожая. А что уж говорить о правильно подобранных сроках, ведь от них зависит не только вкус и размер плодов, но и приживется ли зеленый житель вообще. Малейшие заморозки – и неокрепшее растение погибнет.

Вкусные черные ягоды

Лучше всего сажать смородину осенью. У нового жителя сада будет еще достаточно времени, чтобы раны зажили и корневая система восстановилась. А это обязательные требования для хорошей зимовки. Правда, в этом случае потребуется особенный уход ранней весной. Ведь посаженные осенью растения могут взойти во время оттепели, а не с приходом постоянного тепла. Посадка весной тоже популярна у многих дачников, но это опасно промерзанием корней. Что делать, если посадочный материал приобрели поздней осенью? В этом случае стоит прикопать черенки, чтобы они перенесли зиму в земле, а уже с наступлением весны посадить нового зеленого жителя.

Практикуется и укоренение смородины летом. До наступления холодов растение не только успевает восстановиться, но и получить нужные питательные элементы извне. Вообще, трудно назвать точные сроки, когда высаживают черенки черной смородины, так как это зависит от климатической зоны. Например, в областях с более холодным климатом это делают в конце сентября, а в Крыму – можно и вовсе в ноябре.

Подготовка посадочного материала

От качества черенков зависит конечный результат. Для размножения берутся как зеленые, так и уже одеревенелые веточки, но и в любом случае они срезаются со здоровых кустарников. В целом к выращиванию маточников предъявляют очень серьезные требования. Вокруг них в радиусе 1,5 километра не должно находиться никакой растительности. За состоянием кустов постоянно следят, проводят профилактические мероприятия. Маточные растения и сами саженцы обязательно проверяют на чистосортность, не поражены ли они болезнями, вредителями.

Черенки черной смородины со здоровых кустарников

Однолетние побеги толщиной не менее 7 мм нарезают небольшими отрезками, около 20 см. Верхний срез делается на 1 см выше почки, а нижний – косой, под нижним привоем. Очень важно, чтобы инструмент был хорошо заточен, иначе можно повредить саженец. При массовых заготовках используют косилку. После чего формируют пучки, в каждом по 100 веточек и с помощью циркулярной пилы разрезают на отрезки нужной длины. Далее посадочный материал сортируется в зависимости от толщины. Подготовленные саженцы помещают в емкость с водой и вымачивают в течение нескольких суток. Если увеличить время выдержки до недели, то жидкость следует поменять минимум 2 раза. Еще можно опустить черенки на 24 часа в 0,01% раствор гетероауксина.

Где охотнее будет расти черная смородина?

С посадкой черенков черной смородины проблем возникнуть не должно, однако это не освобождает от подготовки участка. Лучше всего подойдет пониженное достаточно освещенное и увлажненное место, хорошо защищенное от ветров. Часто этот кустарник высаживают вдоль заборов, на расстоянии около 1,5 метра до ограждения. Землю предварительно выравнивают и перекапывают, чтобы удалить все сорняки.

Подготовка участка под посадку

Также перед вспахиванием следует внести прикормки: суперфосфат гранулированный – 100 г, сернокислый калий – 20 г и 3 кг органических удобрений на 1 квадрат. Чтобы отрегулировать кислотность почвы, проводят известкование. Уровень рН должен находиться в пределах 4–5,5. Посадка завершится успешным укоренением, если до этого на участке росли однолетние травы и зерновые культуры. А вот крыжовник и малина – плохие предшественники. Так как с первым смородина имеет одинаковые болезни и вредителей, а корни второй даже после вырубки способны еще на протяжении двух лет засорять насаждения.

Посадка – основная техника

Существует мнение, что лучше всего высаживать смородину во время небольшого дождика, но этот момент весьма спорный. Однако немного увлажнить почву не мешает. В подготовленные траншеи черенки высаживаются на глубину 6–7 см под наклоном. Нижняя почка находится в земле у самой поверхности, а верхняя над почвой. На открытом воздухе остается 1–2 глазка.

Грунт после посадки черенков смородины необходимо уплотнить и обязательно мульчировать на несколько сантиметров, неважно, сажали вы их осенью или в другое время года. Это позволит защитить растение от капризов погоды, еще поддерживается нужная влажность почвы, да и можно не бояться весеннего выпирания посадочного материала, которое грозит обморожением.

Мульчирование грунта после посадки черенков

Застелив черенки темной пленкой, вы добьетесь увеличения выхода саженцев. Но просто накрыть будущие кусты защитным материалом недостаточно, нужно сделать отверстия над каждым экземпляром.

Если вы предпочитаете весеннюю посадку, то все равно подготовить участок и материал следует в конце сентября. Сохранить черенки зимой можно в ящиках с землей или песком. Лучшим укрытием от морозов послужит снег. Переселять в открытый грунт растения следует после того, как почва прогреется минимум до 7 °C. За лето черенки успевают окрепнуть, укорениться, и уже осенью их можно пересадить на постоянное место. Слабые экземпляры оставляют еще на один год.

Размножение зелеными черенками

Метод зеленого черенкования также пользуется огромной популярностью у садоводов. В этом случае берутся молодые однолетние приросты, которые только начинают переходить в одеревенелое состояние. Побег должен быть достаточно гибким, зеленоватым и не плодоносить. Лучше всего брать посадочный материал с середины ветки. Их длина не превышает 12 см (3–4 листа), но большой шанс прижиться у веточки всего с одной почкой. Срезы делаются прямыми на расстоянии 5 мм от крайних почек. Если всего 1 глазок, то снизу до него нужно оставить не менее 3 см. Пластины нижних листьев укорачиваются или полностью срезаются. Иногда используют и комбинированные черенки, состоящие из двухлетней ветки и молодого прироста.

Молодые однолетние приросты

Лучше всего проводить посадку черенков черной смородины не осенью, а летом, при этом следует побеспокоиться о теплице. Подготовив небольшие веточки, следует поместить их в специальный ростовой раствор. Он готовится из индолилмасляной кислоты и воды в соотношении 1:20. Время выдержки не менее 12 часов, но и не более суток. Желательно накрыть черенки влажной тканью.

Грунт следует правильно подготовить. Удаляются все сорняки и их корни; если необходимо, участок выравнивается, и земля вспахивается на глубину около 20 см. Далее насыпается слой речного песка с торфом. Его толщина не превышает 4 см. Черенки помещают во влажную почву на глубину 2 см. После чего следует обильное увлажнение. Расстояние между каждым экземпляром выдерживается 5 см, ряды формируются параллельно друг другу через 7 см. Комбинированные черенки обычно располагают следующим образом: двухлетняя ветвь – наклонно на глубине 1,5–2 см, молодая часть – вертикально. Если проводится посадка черенка с одной почкой, то его располагают наклонно, а глазок находится над грунтом.

Парник накрывается пленкой, чтобы растение укоренилось как можно раньше. Теплицу следует периодически проветривать и очень важно поддерживать в ней нужный уровень влажности. В первые недели следует опрыскивать новоиспеченных жителей парника несколько раз в день. Где-то через месяц нужно провести первую подкормку комплексными удобрениями. Делают эту процедуру 2 раза в месяц, каждый раз увеличивая дозу минеральных веществ. После середины августа удобрять растение не нужно.

Через год саженцы с хорошей корневой системой можно переселять на постоянное место. Растение аккуратно выкапывают, чтобы не повредить подземную часть, и посадка делается прямо с комом «родной» земли в предварительно подготовленные ямы. Расстояние между кустами выдерживается 1–1,5 метра.

Оцените статью: Поделитесь с друзьями!90000 How to Grow Blackcurrants from Cuttings 90001 90002 90003 SELECTING AND CUTTING A HARDWOOD STEM 90004 90002 There is a best time to take hardwood cutting but any time between October to March should be OK. We suggest the best time for hardwood cuttings in your area is the third week of October. 90006 The reason for taking blackcurrant cuttings in mid autumn is that the ground is still warm enough to allow the roots to establish themselves at the expense of unwanted foliage at this time of year.If you take cuttings in mid-winter the ground will be too cold for much root growth to occur. Cuttings taken in early spring will tend to grow foliage at the expense of roots and for cuttings, you initially want good root growth. 90007 90006 First prepare a small patch of soil for the cuttings to grow in. Dig it well and add some well rotted compost or similar to provide good drainage. Work in a handful of blood, fish and bone fertiliser. 90007 90006 90002 90007 90006 You are looking for grey stems rather than green ones and they should be the thickness of a pencil (see the picture above).Green stems indicate that they have grown recently and may be damaged by frost when used as cuttings. The greyer stems are from growth earlier in the year which will have hardened up slightly. 90007 90006 Only take cuttings from blackcurrant bushes which are in good health. Cut a 30cm / 12in stem from the main bush just below a bud. See the picture above (Click it to enlarge and see more clearly). 90007 90006 Trim off 5cm / 2in from the top end of the stem. Trim off any leaves which remain on the stem but be careful not to damage any of the buds — see picture below.90007 90006 90002 90007 90003 PLANTING BLACKCURRANT HARDWOOD CUTTINGS 90004 90002 Blackcurrant cuttings should be planted deeper compared to other cuttings. About two thirds of the stem should be below the soil and only a third above. Plant the stem about 15cm / 6in deep in the prepared trench firming the soil down (see picture below). Water the cuttings well. 90002 90006 90007 90006 The cuttings should be left alone until early autumn the next year unless weather conditions are exceptionally dry when they may need a good watering.Even better, apply a deep mulch around the cuttings when they are first planted which will reduce the need for watering to none in most years. 90007 90006 See the picture above for the same cuttings in August the next year. Very healthy looking plants which will be moved to their final position in a month’s time. Dig up your cutting with as much of the root ball as possible. Plant your blackcurrant bush in its final growing position as described here. 90007.90000 The Ultimate Guide to Growing Blackcurrants 90001 90002 In a nutshell …….. 90003 90004 90005 Space 5 ‘apart [1.5 metres] 90006 90005 Yield — established bushes give 10lbs or more 90006 90005 Siting — full sun to partial shade 90006 90005 Soil — any reasonable soil with adequate drainage 90006 90005 Plant — Oct-April approx as bare root, pot-grown at other times 90006 90005 Pruning — remove a proportion of older stems, cutting out at the base in Winter 90006 90017 90018 90019 90018 View Our Blackcurrant Range 90019 90018 90019 90002 Index 90003 90018 View our range of Blackcurrant Bushes 90019 90018 A well established blackcurrant bush can yield 10 ibs or more fruit and will remain productive for up to 15 years.That’s a very generous supply of blackcurrants you can make countless jars of jam from, and the fruits are also ideal for freezing, juicing, adding to yogurts etc. Blackcurrants grow not as a tree but as a bush with multi stems arising from the base. They will usually grow to around 5 ‘and the same across [about 1.5 metres] They are hardy, deciduous and strongly, pleasantly, resinous. 90019 90018 Blackcurrants are probably the easiest of all the soft fruits to please. Any soil is suitable, they can tolerate heavier and more poorly drained sites than other fruit bushes, and even a little shade.Which is not to say that more ideal situations will not reap greater rewards, because they will. Generous hearty soil, plenty of sun and a good feeding regime makes all the difference. But a blackcurrant bush will also shrug off less promising conditions and still yield fairly well. 90019 90018 Disease became a problem some years ago and in many older stocks significant disease became ingrained. So make sure you buy healthy stocks from reputable growers to get the best start. 90019 90002 Spacing for blackcurrant bushes 90003 90018 An average blackcurrant bush will require a spacing of 5 ‘and it will grow the same in height.Some varieties are slightly more or less vigorous than this and of course it is also dependant on soil, but 5 ‘is a good average. 90037 If you are short of space look for the newer compact variety ‘Ben Sarek’ which can be spaced just 3.5 ‘apart and is also shorter in growth. 90019 90002 Scottish Blackcurrant Varieties 90003 90018 These days the Blackcurrant scene is dominated by ‘Ben’ prefix varieties and these have revolutionised blackcurrant production in this country. They are defined by extra frost hardiness as well as bountiful crops, and they all hail from the SCRI.When choosing varieties I would not look any further than these for all round top class results and reliability. Our nursery also maintains a collection of older historic varieties as well and they’re nice to keep and some of our more ardent customers like to grow a few for old-times sake, or because they like something different to the norm. They have their qualities but I would not recommend them for general culture, especially where only a few bushes can be cultivated. Similarly there is a plethora of European introductions and most of those seem to suffer more from disease and or frost damage.90019 90018 90019 90002 Preparing the soil for your new bushes 90003 90018 It is better where possible to prepare the area some weeks in advance of planting to allow the soil to settle and so that all weeds can be removed which is a task that can not really be done thoroughly in one go. 90019 90018 The area allocated for the bushes should be double dug until it attains a fine tilth. Growmore at a rate of 3oz’a per square yard should be applied and a thick covering of compost or well rotted manure to 3 or 4 «depth.Your ground is now ideal for the planting of new blackcurrant bushes. 90019 90002 Planting Blackcurrants 90003 90018 Identify the positions for the holes with split pea sticks, spacing 5’apart each way. A hole should be dug wide enough to accept the roots without cramping or bending them. Blackcurrants do better if they are planted quite deeply, perhaps a shade deeper than they were at the nursery You can usually identify the soil mark around the base of the bush that will tell you how deeply it was planted before.90019 90018 When you are satisfied the bush is at the correct depth, infill with nicely friable soil mixed with a little compost and firm down very well with the heel of your boot. The soil should now be level with that of the surrounding ground. 90019 90018 Bare rooted bushes will be planted during the dormant season so only a light watering to settle them in is required, thereafter no watering is usually required and they should have new root growth in place to support strong growth by the Spring.For this reason earlier planting is better than late planting, because you will find during any mild winter weather the bushes will already start to make new root growth in readiness. Plant a blackcurrant bush in October and lift it again in January [not recommended, but hypothetical] and you will likely find a forest of short white new roots already present. 90019 90002 Planting pot grown bushes 90003 90018 The principals are the same except that you will be making a hole approximately the same size as the rootball.If the rootball is congested tease out some of the roots so they can make there way into the new soil and facilitate establishment. Container grown bushes will normally be planted during the growing season, from April to September so heavy regular watering is necessary until they are established. Aim to water twice a day for the first 2 or 3 weeks, in the early morning and again in the evening when it is cooller and the water will do more good and be more readily taken up by the roots. Thereafter once every other day is normally sufficient until the bushes are established.Blackcurrants establish more easily than almost any other fruiting plant. 90019 90002 When to plant blackcurrants 90003 90018 These days it is possible to plant all year round. Planting of bare rooted bushes during the dormant season, from October to April is to be preferred because the bushes establish will little intervention or aftercare and receive little shock at this time. They are impervious to the elements and thoroughly hardy once they are in the ground. If you need to plant at another time, during the Spring and Summer, then this is also perfectly possible but at this time you will be planting pot grown bushes.Regular watering as described above is necessary to get them going but thereafter establishment is usually quick and satisfactory and the bushes will be well placed to make more significant growth the next year and they will be well established before winter. 90019 90002 Pruning Blackcurrant bushes 90003 90018 After planting you should cut all the shoots back to 2 «from the base. Yes, really. Having performed this task you might stand back and wonder «oh my, what have I done ?!» But do not worry, having brutalised your brand new bushes they will come back all the stronger and basal buds will form strong new shoots next season which will be much better placed to yield well the year following that.You can leave your bushes ‘up’ and they will crop sooner because of it [Blackcurrants only fruit on well ripened 2 year wood] but long term they will suffer from a lack of strong new growth in the early stages. When your receive your bushes they will probably already have been ‘tipped’ or cut back a little to facilitate packing, but do not make the mistake of assuming they have already been pruned for you. You must cut them back much lower than that, and as described above. The nursery will usually leave them higher than they need to be when supplying because customers do not like to receive plants with nothing to show except a few stumps and some root! 90019 90018 In the future you will find that although older stems will continue to produce some fruit the bulk of the crop — and the best quality fruits — is borne on second year growth.So you should aim to remove a number of older stems each year pruning them back to the base in the winter. This wil encourage and make room for strong new shoots to come through the next Spring, and these will then crop the summer of the next year. Aim to remove up to a third of the old stems annually. It might seem confusing at first, which is the old and which is the new? With a practiced eye, it becomes clearer as the new shoots are usually paler and shinier, old stems are often a bit green with algae and moss, more rugged and thick in appearance, and you can often see the dead stalks of the previous seasons crop still adhering to the stem.90019 90002 Blackcurrants cordons 90003 90018 The blackcurrant is seldom grown as a cordon because the pruning and growing method is different to other currants and gooseberries. As can be imagined, a bush that needs it’s old stems removing regularly to keep it invigorated and encourage a fresh supply of fruiting wood, is not really going to be much use as a cordon. But if you really are tucked for space and you want to allocate just 18 «for a cordon then it is still possible to grow a blackcurrant in this way, allowing the main stems to fruit for 2/3 years and then removing one of two main stems and allowing another to replace it.Not the most satisfactory of growing method but doable if you have no other choice. 90019 90002 Subsequent feeding and aftercare 90003 90018 90080 90019 90018 Blackcurrants are vigorous growers and prolific fruiters so a hearty feeding regime will give them the strength and impetus to gift you the best results possible. 90019 90018 Growmore or bonemeal can applied once again at 3oz’s per sq yard, in February or early March of each season. At the same time re-apply mulch as Blackcurrants like to remain nice and moist during the summer.You can consider extra watering from June to September when the bushes are most active, water with a hose as mature bushes will have an extensive root system so really puddle that water around the base of the bushes for the most effect and extra luscious large berries. 90019 90018 Weed control is important because they compete with the bushes for nutrients and water. So be vigilant and remove any weeds as they appear. Because blackcurrants are fairly shallow rooted [another reason why extra watering is an advantage] it is best to lightly hoe or hand weed, or herbicides can be applied with care as the bushes are usually devoid of much foliage at the base.90019 90002 Frost protection 90003 90018 Blackcurrants are pretty hardy and if growing the newer varieties frost is not usually a consideration and is never a problem to resting dormant bushes. But the flowers open in May and it is possible for them to be caught by late frost and, particularly in the case of older varieties, crops can significantly be reduced or wiped out completely if this happens. So if frost is forecast and your bushes are bedecked with flowers, make the effort and cover them with horticultural fleece for the night.It is important that this is removed during the day as the flowers are pollinated by day flying insects and bees so if they can not gain access to the flowers, you will not get a harvest! 90019 90002 Bird protection 90003 90018 Blackcurrants are not the favoured snack for our avian friends. Maybe it’s the colour, or the strong aroma, but they would much rather go for gleaming redcurrants, strawberries or raspberries if available. But that’s not to say they will not tackle blackcurrants, they will if there is not a more attractive option.So be on guard with a shotgun [or perhaps not]. 90019 90018 On second thoughts, protect the bushes as the berries begin to ripen with netting, or various other bird scaring devices can be found on the garden centre shelves. 90019 90018 90099 Blackcurrant pollination 90100 .There are no issues with pollination, all varieties are self compatible so even lone bushes will fruit to maximum capacity. The flowers are pollinated by bees and other insects. So for this reason better pollination and fruit set will be achieved if the bushes are sited in a more sheltered position with some sun, conditions where insects are more active.90019 90002 Choice of blackcurrant variety 90003 90018 Your newer varieties are much the best as they will be able to shrug off disease and late frosts more easily meaning they will still perform even without intervention from you. Another consideration to make when choosing which varieties to grow [the choice can be bewildering with some fruit specialists listing 20 or more varieties] is that of season. Varieties have been bred to extend the normal harvest period, so if you can grow a range of varieties this will make sure you are picking fresh blackcurrants for the longest possible period.If you tend to use your blackcurrants for freezing or jam making then you may prefer to have one concentrated pick and get the job done all at once in which case choose a good maincrop variety you know will fare well. 90019 90018 Blackcurrants tend to ripen in July, some of the latest varieties will fruit into August and a few very early varieties may be ripe by late June. So it is possible to have a 6 week picking season for Blackcurrants if you are canny with your choice of variety. 90019 90002 90099 Growing Blackcurrants as standards 90100 90003 90018 An increasingly popular way of growing Blackcurrant bushes is on a standard leg, rather like a standard rose.The bush attains roughly the same size as if it were a conventional one but it is supported on a clear stem, usually this is grafted at around 40 «. The way in which this is produced on the nursery is a very specialised procedure. The bush is grafted onto a rootstock stem of the closely related Ribes aureum, but the host is not allowed to grow and any resultant shoots are rubbed off until the blackcurrant cutting has ‘taken’ Often two or more grafts are inserted onto the host stem so as to ensure a nice rounded head.It takes at least 2 years to produce a good standard Blackcurrant so the price is much more expensive than a normal bush. 90019 90018 Cultivation as to soil requirements and pruning is just the same, there is no difference. But it is easier to harvest the fruits from a standard currant as the branches are roughly head-high, so no bending or stooping is required. They make quite a formal and attractive feature too and it is possible to plant beneath them so they might be viewed as a more sensible use of space.But they can get quite top heavy so they need a sheltered position and their retail cost does not really allow for planting in quantity. They are suitable also for growing in larger containers of 24 «or so. Standard currants really need a good strong cane or a 2 x 2 «standard rose stake to support the weight of the head. 90019 90018 Keep an eye out for suckers springing from the main stem, because these will be of the rootstock, not the blackcurrant. Although they should largely have stopped being produced by the time you get your new standard currant growing, it is possible for them to appear again at any time during the life of the ‘tree’.90019 90002 90099 Growing in blackcurrants in pots 90100 90003 90018 Although not the first choice that comes to mind when thinking of fruit to grow in containers — maybe because they are so accommodating in the ground, or maybe perhaps because they are not the most attractive of things. But nevertheless it is possible to grow them in pots. I would recommend a container not less than 18 «and either a proprietary all-purpose peat based compost can be used, a custom mix of peat, sharp sand and leaf mould / organic matter, or you can use loam based potting compost.Ben Sarek is by far the best variety for container growing because it is much more compact in growth and requires less pruning. Any other variety is suited to this method of cultivation as well, but the rangier growers will simply look untidy. 90019 90018 Pruning is the same as for bushes grown in the ground and regular hearty feeding is important to ensure a reliable supply of young growth to continue the fruiting cycle. For this purpose I would use a combination of miracle-grow, Osmocote tabs [slow release tablets you insert just one a year] and the occasional foliar feed of maxicrop.Beware the same bugs and diseases as for bushes grown in the open ground. 90019 90018 90099 Blackcurrants in containers 90100 ought to produce well for four to five years in a good big pot. At this point I would probably recommend re-potting and this should take place in the Winter time. Shake off some of the compost from the roots — you can be quite robust in this — cut all of the growth back to near the base and allow the bush to start again and rejuvenate, repotting it in the same container with fresh compost.You should then be able to cultivate the same bush in a container for up to seven or eight years, after that it would be best to discard it [or plant it out] and start again. 90019 90002 90099 Growing Blackcurrants for extra large fruits 90100 90099 90100 90003 90018 Maybe you have a penchant for big-is-beautiful berries and fruits, perhaps the sheer size of out of the ordinary fruits thrills you, or maybe you are an erstwhile exhibitor? Either way few of can resist the temptation of extra large fruits.With blackcurrants it is perhaps fairly easy to gain exhibition-quality specimens. Cultivation plays a part but so to does variety selection. It pays to choose a variety that has large berry size as one of it’s attributes in the first place, and this can then be accentuated still further by generous cultivation techniques. There are three varieties to consider — Ben Conan, Big Ben and Goliath, or maybe Laxtons Giant too. The first two are really the most satisfactory with big fruits individually nearly twice the size of normal blackcurrants, and easily produced too.They are also frost hardy and reliable. 90019 90018 The way to encourage these fruits to get even bigger is to feed very generously of course, but also to thin the individual trusses and also to limit the overall truss quantity the bush is producing, by perhaps reducing the total number of strigs by up to a quarter. Individually the trusses should not be allowed to keep more than three or four berries each and in this way you maximise still further the stunning size of the individual berries.90019 90018 The other important aspect of cultivating for show-standard berries is that of water. Copious amounts at key times, which in this instance would be from soon after fruit-set. And do be consistent about it — if it’s too irregular and boom-or-bust you risk getting a lot of fruits with split skins. 90019 90142 Pests and diseases 90143 90018 Here is a run down of the problems you are most likely to encounter. 90019 90002 Greenfly and Aphid 90003 90018 Are the most commonly troublesome critters, causing soft new growth to curl and become distorted, sometimes it also become streaked with yellow.These insects overwinter on the bush so the first step to eradication is to provide a winter wash all over the bush whilst it is dormant. Insecticides are still very effective but you need to start early, soon after the first leaves emerge and repeat applications as directed by the manufacturer. If you have left it too late and your blackcurrants already show signs of heavy infestation, be prepared to snip off the ends of the new growth where the damage is worst, destroy these growths, and then spray.Unchecked greenfly populations sap the strength of the bush and they also spread diseases. 90019 90002 Mildew 90003 90018 This is a fairly commonplace problem with blackcurrants and is more troublesome with the older varieties but not exclusively so. The leaves become silvery and powdery and it can spoil the fruits too. Sometimes this fungal disease is encouraged by a lack of pruning as too much congested or soft growth encourages it. It is fairly easily dealt with by a proprietary insecticide [we use systhane but so many are being withdrawn all the time, it’s a matter of what your local stockist can recommend] but again prevention is better than cure so start an early spraying programme to prevent it getting a hold in the first place.90019 90018 90019 90002 Big Bud 90003 90018 Is a more serious disease as there is not really a cure. It is characterised by the buds beginning to swell in the spring but they never develop beyond that point and remain inflated, the reason being they are infested with numerous tiny mites that invaded the buds very early in the season, moving from infected buds to healthy ones . 90019 90018 Treatment is generally advised by picking off infected buds and destroying them, thus limiting the spread of the mites.It is quite easy in the winter to determine the damaged buds from the healthy ones, but it is a very laborious task especially if you have more than one or two bushes. Most sprays that were in part effective have been removed from use, and it is difficult to kill the mites because they spend nearly all of their time concealed inside the tissue of the plant. A systemic insecticide such as Provado can help, but timing is critical as you will need to apply just as the buds begin to swell in the spring but you need also to be fastidious because it is difficult to get a good application at this time when there is so little growth.This treatment will likely need to be applied several times, and over more than one season, before it begins to take effect. 90037 Another remedy is to re-plant with the resistant variety ‘Seabrooks Black’ 90019 90002 Leaf spot 90003 90018 Begins life as small brown spots on the leaves which gradually become larger and coalesce. Leaves fall prematurely and the resultant crop is usually affected. The disease can be controlled by the use of a broad spectrum fungicide, applied shortly after flowering.Extra feeding is usually effective to help the bushes regain vigour that has been lost. Can also infect red and whitecurrants. 90019 90142 The Jostaberry 90143 90018 An unusual Blackcurrant hybrid raised from a cross between a Blackcurrant and a Gooseberry. It resembles more closely a Blackcurrant but the leaves are smaller and shinier and the fruit are larger and sweeter. The bush has a faint blackcurrant odour but it is not as strong. This increasingly popular hybrid berry should be treated and grown just as you would a Blackcurrant bush.It is quite vigorous in growth so alow 6 ‘or so for one bush. View our Jostaberry> 90019 90002 View our full range of Blackcurrant Bushes 90003 90018 90019 .90000 How To Grow Blackcurrants — Planting and Pruning 90001 90002 90003 90004 90002 90006 90004 90002 How to Grow your own Blackcurrants 90004 90002 Blackcurrants are easy-to-grow bushes that produce bunches of dark purple to black fruits in mid-summer. They have a tart flavour, are an invaluable source of vitamin C and can be used in pies and jams and to make cordials and cassis. 90004 90002 90004 90002 Site and Soil 90015 Blackcurrants tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, but prefer well-drained, moisture-retentive conditions.They need a rich, heavy soil. Blackcurrants prefer full sun, but will tolerate light shade. Avoid frost pockets — frosts can drastically reduce yields, even on some modern cultivars that are later flowering. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90020 Buying and Planting 90015 Always buy certified stock to avoid virus problems. One bush should yield about 4.5kg (10lb) of fruit. Grow blackcurrants as stooled, or multi-stemmed, bushes. In small gardens, blackcurrants can be grown in containers. Plant bare-root blackcurrants in late autumn; containerised plants can be planted at any time of year as long as the soil is not too wet.90004 90002 A few weeks befor 90024 90025 90026 e planting, clear the soil of all perennial weeds and enrich it with a generous amount of well-rotted manure. Add a compound balanced fertiliser at the rate of 85g per sq m (3oz per sq yd). 90004 90002 Dig a hole at least twice the circumference of the pot in which the blackcurrant was purchased if not bare-root. Space blackcurrant bushes 1.8m (6ft) apart. Add controlled-release fertiliser like Seafeed seaweed and poultry manure pellets on poor soils for individual plants if compound fertiliser was not added when preparing the soil.90004 90002 Set each plant at least 6cm (2.25in) deeper than it was previously, so it develops into a multi-stemmed stool bush. Deep planting encourages young, vigorous shoots to develop from the base. Mix the soil from the hole with well-rotted organic manure and backfill the hole. Firm it in well before watering. 90004 90002 When planting container-grown blackcurrants from mid-autumn until late spring, cut all the stems back to one or two buds above ground level to encourage strong shoots to develop from the base.If planting between early summer and early autumn, wait until the plant is dormant before pruning all the stems. 90015 90004 90002 90004 90002 90004 90002 90040 Plant Care 90015 Water blackcurrants during dry periods in the growing season. Hand weed and mulch around the plant in late winter using well-rotted manure to suppress weeds. Avoid hoeing near the base of the bush because the hoe might cut through new shoots developing at the base of the plant. Re-pot container-grown blackcurrants every two or three years.Pot back into the same container or one slightly larger. Trim back some of the roots and tease away the old soil replacing it with fresh John Innes No 3 Compost. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90046 90015 90024 90049 90026 Training & Pruning 90015 Prune blackcurrants when dormant — from late autumn to late winter. Bushes fruit on the young wood, mainly from one- or two-year-old stems, and it is important to bear this in mind when pruning. 90004 90002 Up to and including the fourth year after planting, remove weak, wispy shoots, retaining a basic structure of six to 10 healthy shoots.After year four, cut out about one-third of the older wood at the base, using a pair of loppers or a pruning saw. This will encourage and make room for younger, healthy wood. Also remove weak shoots and low ones leaning towards the ground 90004 90002 90004 90002 90058 Pests and Diseases 90015 Blackcurrants are prone to attack by birds, so cover the plants with taut netting as the fruits ripen. 90004 90002 90024 American gooseberry mildew: 90026 Flower frost damage and fungal leaf spots and mildew can also cause problems, as can the following more specific problems.90004 90002 90024 Big bud mite: 90026 These mites infest the buds of blackcurrant bushes. ‘Ben Hope’ is a resistant cultivar. 90004 90002 90024 Blackcurrant gall midge: 90026 Tiny, white maggots feed on the shoot tips of blackcurrants, preventing leaves from reaching their full size; affected leaves dry up and die. Shoot tips can also die back. There is no cure available to the home gardener. Cultivars such as ‘Ben Connan’ and ‘Ben Sarek’ are resistant to blackcurrant gall midge. 90004 90002 90024 Capsid bugs: 90026 These green insects suck the sap and cause small holes to appear on the leaves, which sometimes develop reddish brown spots.Spray with pyrethrum as soon as the symptoms are noticed. 90004 90002 90024 Reversion: 90026 This virus is usually transmitted by big bud mite. It causes the leaves to turn yellow, and flowering and yields are dramatically reduced. There is no cure for this problem and plants should be removed immediately. Always buy certified virus-free plants. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90004 90002 90086 90015 90088 Harvesting 90015 Harvest the fruit on modern varieties such as the Ben series by cutting the strigs (bunches of fruit) as they turn black.Older types of blackcurrant varieties ripen at different times, with the currants at the top of the strig ripening first. The fruit should therefore be picked individually. 90004 90002 Eat fresh blackcurrants within a few days of harvesting. Alternatively, they can be frozen, cooked, or made into jam or jelly. 90004 90002 90004 90002 90004 .90000 Pests and Diseases of Blackcurrants 90001 90002 90003 APHIDS 90004 90002 These are small insects (commonly greenfly and blackfly) which suck the liquid out of tender new shoots. This weakens the blackcurrant bush. The aphids also create a sticky liquid which cover the leaves and attracts other insects and diseases. They rarely kill blackcurrant bushes but can seriously reduce the amount of fruit produced. See our detailed article on identifying and dealing with aphids 90006 here 90007.A close-up picture of an aphid attack on a blackcurrant leaf can be seen below, click it to enlarge and see the full horror! 90008 90002 Greenfly on a blackcurrant leaf 90010 90008 One particular aphid can cause red blisters and marks on the surface of the leaves on all the currant bushes. It’s called the 90006 Currant Blister Aphid 90007 (90014 Cryptomyzus ribis 90015), see the picture below. This particular aphid tend to restrict itself only some of the leaves and although the effect looks dramatic it rarely affects the health of the plants.We simply ignore them. If you want treat it then do as described for aphids above. 90010 90008 90002 90002 Currant Blister Aphid 90002 Red areas on currant bush leaves 90010 90008 Aphids, including the Currant Blister Aphid, are first seen on currant bushes from late April to mid May depending on the climate in your area. If you do intend to spray them, do it at the very first sign of damage for maximum effect. 90010 90003 BIG BUD MITE 90004 90002 Big bud mite almost exclusively affects blackcurrant bushes.In late winter, January and February time, when the buds would normally begin to form, they do so but are much larger than normal. Affected buds either fall off or produce distorted growth which fails to produce fruit. 90008 There is no cure for big bud mite, chemical or otherwise so your best course of action is to let the plants grow throughout the season, harvest whatever fruit is produced (it is safe to eat) then dig up and burn the plant. Replace with another plant, the variety Ben Hope has good resistance to big bud mite.90010 90003 REVERSION DISEASE 90004 90002 Reversion Disease affect blackcurrant bushes almost exclusively. It is a virus which can not be treated and affected plants should be dug up and burnt. The variety Ben Gairn has been shown to have some resistance to Reversion Disease. 90008 In almost all cases it follows an infection of Big Bud Mite (see above). Reversion Disease will cause the yield of your blackcurrant bush to reduce significantly to almost nothing after three years.Another sign of Reversion Disease are flowers which are malformed. 90010 90003 MILDEW 90004 90002 Mildew often affects blackcurrant bushes and it is normally preventable. The signs are a greyish powder which can appear on the fruit, leaves and in bad cases on the stem. It is unlikely to kill the bush but it will weaken it and make it more prone to other diseases. For a full description of the symptoms and treatments for Powdery mildew, click here. 90008 90010 90008 There are chemical sprays available to help kill mildew although prevention is much better than cure.Older varieties of blackcurrants are far more susceptible to mildew so avoid growing those. The «Ben» varieties (with the exception of Ben Lomond) of blackcurrants are all resistant in some degree to mildew. The new variety (to the UK) Titania also shows significant resistance to mildew. 90010 90008 Pruning methods can also significantly reduce the risk of being affected by mildew. See our article of pruning blackcurrants here. If your blackcurrants are susceptible to mildew pay particular attention to keeping the central part of the bush free from congestion.Also take care to remove all crossing and touching branches. When they rub together they can open up the bark letting in infections. 90010 90008 90010 90003 FRIUTS FALL OFF BEFORE THEY ARE RIPE 90004 90002 The symptoms are that blackcurrant bushes form green currants normally but around mid May to mid June they fall off before they are ripe. This can be due to several causes and it is known as «90006 run-off 90007». By far the most common cause is adverse weather conditions especially cold weather.Other causes can be lack of water, pests and diseases, particularly botrytis and mildew. It can occur in one year and then never appear again or can occur in several years depending on the cause. 90008 Older varieties of blackcurrants are particularly prone to run-off and often the only solution is to plant one of the newer varieties which are more resistant. Our suggestion for a variety which rarely suffers from run-off is Ben Sarek. 90010 90003 LEAVES WILT AND BLACKCURRANT PLANTS DIE 90004 90002 If the leaves on a blackcurrant bush wilt and die, but at the same time you are sure there is no shortage of water, then the conclusion must be that, for some reason or other, the roots are not able to take up moisture and nutrients.The most common cause of this in the UK is the vine weevil. In its most damaging stage of life it eats the roots of blackcurrant bushes both in pots and the open ground. To find out how to specifically identify this pest and what can be done to eradicate it 90006 click here 90007 for our in depth page on vine weevils. 90003 WOOLLY (VINE) SCALE INSECT 90004 90002 The symptoms are small patches of white stuff on the stems of blackcurrant bushes. They often appear on slightly weaker parts of the bark where leaves or small stems have broken off.If you prune late in the year they will also be attracted to the point at which a stem has been pruned. The picture below shows just that happening although they can just as easily appear anywhere on stems and branches. 90008 90002 Woolly Scale Insect (click to enlarge) 90010 90008 The technical name for this insect is 90014 Pulvinaria vitis 90015. At the centre, underneath the white substance you will find a female scale insect and she has laid eggs and then created the white covering to protect the eggs.They can vary in appearance, shape and size depending on the conditions. A few of them do not do much damage but if left they will breed and can then become a problem. 90010 90008 The white coating protects them from insecticides which are of little use because they just run off. If you can get the timing just correct, the time to spray with an insecticide is when the eggs hatch and the young scale insects begin moving about to a new part of the plant. In most cases, this window of opportunity is too small to be of use.The only way to get rid of them is either to squash the white blobs with your fingers (killing the eggs inside) or to use a toothbrush or similar to do the same job. 90010 90003 OTHER SCALE INSECTS 90004 90002 There are many forms of scale insects which attack a variety of plants and blackcurrants are often one of their victims. The picture below shows just how scary looking this pest is but, although serious if left to its own devices, it is not impossible to control. At maturity they look like pea-sized growths which are purple-brown on stems and young branches.90008 90002 Picture of scale insects on a blackcurrant bush 90002 (picture courtesy of Margaret L.) 90002 90010 90008 First, exactly what is it? What you see in the picture above is a scale insect which feeds on the sap of a twig, branch or leaf. Their life cycle begins when the scales overwinter and then lay eggs around May time — 200 or so eggs which are beneath the parents body. In May to mid July the eggs hatch and crawl away to new parts of the tree.This is the stage at which pesticides can be effective, when the insects are moving about. When the insects find a suitable position they clamp their jaws onto the bark of tree and begin to feed on the sap of the tree without moving again. 90010 90008 If you can identify the period in May / June when the young scale insects are on the move spraying with an insecticide will kill them. Ask at your garden centre for an appropriate spray. In general though, sprays suitable for killing aphids will also kill moving scale insects.90010 90008 If you miss this stage of their lifecycle then a plant oil winter wash treatment (again ask at your local garden centre) in December to January will effectively suffocate many of the overwintering bugs. 90010 90008 The easiest method, if your tree is a manageable size, is to manually remove the scale insects around May when they are clearly visible but have not yet hatched their eggs. If you are squeamish about removing them with your fingers use a toothbrush and some diluted washing up liquid to brush them off.A gentle spray after with a hose should then remove all traces of them. 90010 90003 CORAL SPOT 90004 90002 This is a fungal infection which causes yellow / orange / coral spots on the stems of blackcurrant bushes (and many other plants with woody stems such as red currants). At different stages of the disease the appearance changes slightly. 90008 90002 Picture of Coral Spot on a blackcurrant bush 90002 90010 90008 The fungus initially attacks dead wood which, in the case of blackcurrants, is normally caused by faulty pruning techniques.It then spreads to live wood and affects the health of the bush. Small, deformed leaves are the secondary sign followed by stems which die back. In the end the plant will die if not treated. 90010 90008 90002 Another picture of Coral Spot 90010 90008 To halt the progress of the fungus the minimum which should be done is to prune out all affected wood. Do this 15cm into good, healthy looking wood. Our personal recommendation would be to prune the entire plant back so that only 15cm remains above ground level.90010 90008 This is harsh treatment and the bush is unlikely to produce fruit for two years. However it has the best chance of eradicating the fungus completely. If the bush is ten or more years old it is best to remove entirely and replace with a new plant. 90010 90008 To avoid this fungus follow our pruning instructions which can be found 90006 here 90007. Use sharp implements to prune and make the cuts as clean as possible. 90010 90003 BLACKCURRANT SAWFLY 90004 90002 The key sign of this pest are simple to identify, the leaves are reduced to skeleton and look like lace.The sawfly has five distinct stages to its life cycle and the damage is done in the fourth cycle, when the pest is a caterpillar. They eat the soft parts of the leaves leaving the veins completely alone. The fruit is also untouched. 90008 90002 Picture courtesy of reader Peter L. 90010 90008 This pest should be treated in exactly the same manner as raspberry sawfly as described 90006 here 90007. 90010 90003 STEMS ARE HOLLOW / HAVE BLACK CENTRES 90004 90002 Some observant people notice, when pruning their blackcurrant bushes, that some of the stems are either hollow or have black / brown marks in the centre.See the two pictures below which clearly show what the problem is. 90008 90002 90002 Blackcurrant stem with black ring in the centre 90010 90008 90002 90002 Blackcurrant stem hollowed out in the centre 90010 90008 Both of these are simply stems which are past their best. The black centre in the stem occurs first and if the stem is not pruned it later becomes hollow in the centre. Neither of these stems will produce a crop of blackcurrants so the solution is to prune them away as close to the base of the plant as possible without damaging the plant.90010 90008 Regular pruning as recommended here will ensure that similar branches are pruned away before they get to this stage, ensuring the maximum amount of fruit is produced each year. 90010 90003 CURRANT BORER 90004 90002 The larvae of the Currant Clearwing Moth is commonly called the Currant Borer. It’s not a common pest in the UK but does occasionally strike. The moths do not really look like your average moth. The bodies are slim and black with two wings and two feelers clearly visible from the front of the head.Males have four yellow bands around their body, females have three. 90008 The larvae, which do the damage are 15 to 18mm long and a cream body. Because they are concealed inside the stems they are often not noticed and can not be treated with pesticides. An understanding of the Currant Clearwing Moth may help in preventing too much damage. 90010 90008 90002 Larvae of Currant Clearwing Moth 90002 Picture courtesy of Aubin van Berckel 90010 90008 APRIL TO MAY 90002 The moths will be seen flying around the currant bushes often resting on the leaves.They lay tiny single eggs in the V between new shoots or buds. The eggs hatch after a week or two and the larvae, which are small at this stage, eat their way into the centre of a stem. 90010 90008 MAY TO APRIL 90002 The larvae spend all this time feeding on the centre part of the stems and go into hibernation in winter. 90010 90008 APRIL TO MAY 90002 The warmer weather re-invigorates the larvae who eat into the outer wood of the stem leaving a thin outer layer.They spin a cocoon which in a week or so pupates and then eats its way through the remaining thin bark layer and emerges as the moth. The skin of the pupa remains at the exit hole from the bark. 90010 90008 After reading through the lifecycle above you’ll now understand how difficult it is to treat this pest. It is possible to spray pesticide on the leaves in April to May time in an attempt to kill the moths but there is no research to understand if this is effective.90010 90008 The best course of action is to prune the affected bushes to 15cm / 6in above ground level in December time and burn the prunings. This will result in a very low crop the next year but in later years the plant will fully recover. 90010 90003 COMMENTS / QUESTIONS LEFT BY OUR READERS 90004 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 28 August 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Katherine 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 The 90006 leaves 90007 on my blackcurrant bushes have a 90006 lace effect 90007 but I am not sure how to deal with them.Can not see any bugs etc. which could be responsible. Help 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Almost certainly that’s sawfly damage, some of them go for blackcurrant leaves. They should be treated exactly the same as raspberry sawfly, our section on that can be found 90006 here 90007. It’s not unusual that you can not see them, this is often the case but they are there! See the picture in our main article above to confirm the damage. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 23 July 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Jill Maltby 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackurrant has coral coloured spots on the stem and then the whole branch begins to die with the leaf becoming very small, the fruit stopping growth and then the stem dies.It killed one bush last year now my other healthy bush has developed the same problem, not effecting the red currants. 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: That sounds very much like Coral Spot. We have added a new section above about this fungal infection which can be found 90006 here 90007. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 14 July 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Geoffrey Evans 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 In have had an old black currant bush that gives good yields although less and with smaller fruits as the years go by.Do black current bushes have a life span or, if properly cared for, do they go on forever? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Blackcurrant bushes live for about 50 years but fruit production gradually reduces after 10 to 15 years. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date 90007: 7 July 2015 90159 90156 90006 From: 90007 Several people 90159 90164 90155 90166 90006 QUESTION 90007: The currants on my blackcurrant bush are shriveling and turning orange / yellow before they they ripen.(90014 This is a summary of several similar questions 90015). A typical picture of the problem has been sent in by Sandra: 90008 90010 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: At the moment I have no definite answer to this question although I am actively investigating and will update this page when I find out more. I am aware that this problem is affecting many people. 90010 90008 First thoughts are that this is a type of run-off because that is the prime cause of blackcurrants falling off before they reach maturity.90010 90008 Does anyone have any ideas? 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 22 June 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Dave 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 On the tip of every stem of my Black Current Bush the leaves are folding in on themselves into a sort of ball and inside they are full of what looks like minute black eggs or bugs, can anyone tell me what they are and what should I do? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Aphids are attacking the tender ends of the leaves.They can be white, black. grey. See our aphid page here. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 7 June 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Andrew Dobson 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackcurrant bush has a 90006 sticky substance on the leaves 90007, what can this be? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Almost certainly it’s aphids. They drip a sweet liquid which then attracts moulds so read the paragraph on aphids above above for what to do.When looking for aphids, locate the leaves with the sticky coating on the leaves and examine the leaves immediately above for signs of the aphids. The leaf with the sticky coating may not yet have aphids on it. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 11 May 2015 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Margaret Leverett 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 The stems of blackcurrant bushes are covered with these 90006 small red swellings or warts 90007.These do not look like insects, but they come off the bark quite easily. The blackcurrants are about 3 years old. They are very slow in coming out this year, but I thought it was because we had moved them over the winter. Do we need to get rid of the bushes? Both bushes are affected. There is a photo attached so you can see. I looked on your Web site, but could not diagnose what the problem was. 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: That’s scale insects. They seem to be more common nowadays so I have added a new section above describing what they are and how to deal with them.See here. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 31 August 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Jim Devine 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 I had a pinky variegated colouring on my black currant and the leaves crinkles. The leaves did not die but there was little crop. The other bushes were ok. Can you help or advise please. Can send a photo if you require one. Thanks 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: I can not identify the pest from the description you gave, send a picture via our 90006 contact us 90007 email and I’ll do my best.It does however sound very much like Currant Blister Aphid, see above for more details. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 01 August 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Hemu 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackcurrants leaves got eaten by bugs. They are dark brown with white dots around body. Just saw them few minutes ago. What is it, and where it came from and how to treat those bugs? Thank you. 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: I can not identify the pest from the description you gave, send a picture via our 90006 contact us 90007 email and I’ll do my best.Does anyone else have any ideas? 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 30 July 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Eileen Donovan 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 This year — earlier and recently — I have had three youngish bushes suddenly die off — their leaves died as if they had run out of water. No sign of pests. They were OK for water. What killed them, please, and do I need to take precautions when replanting? Thanks for your help.90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Eileen, I have added a new section above about what may be the cause of your problem. 90006 Click here 90007 to go there now. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 13 July 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Becca 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackcurrants have been suffering from run-off for the last 3 years. I do not recall what varietal they are, but it’s not one of the RHS recommended ones.We live in Seattle, which has very dry spring / summer weather, so we water every day or every other day. No disease or pests on the plants, so I feel it must be weather. Would I be better off ripping them out and trying with Ben Sarek? Thank you. 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Three years is enough, I agree. Replace them with another variety but I’m not so sure about Ben Sarek for you in Seattle which you say is very dry. Ben Sarek does tend to resist run-off in the UK but it is best suited to a UK type of climate.I have no knowledge of what blackcurrant varieties are available in your area but I would investigate that as well. Good luck. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 08 July 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Val Reynolds 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 Last year our blackcurrants had a powdery mildew. So we cut them all down to ground level. However, this year the powdery mildew has returned. Is it worth treating these plants, or should we destroy them and go for a mildew resistant variety, planting elsewhere in the garden? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: I would go for a variety with some resistance and plant elsewhere.You’ve given the existing ones two years and that would be enough for me. New plants will produce a moderate crop in the second year and be well established by year three. Sometimes, sadly, it’s best to admit defeat and start again. Good luck. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 20 June 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Kathy 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackcurrant bushes have turned yellow with brown marks all over them.What is the problem and what can I do about it? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: The yellowing of the leaves could simply be a lack of nitrogen in the soil. The heavy rain in winter and spring may have washed a lot of it out of the soil. To correct low nitrogen add Growmore granules to the soil around the plant at the rate stated on the packet, water it in well if the weather is dry. Repeat again in two weeks time. 90010 90008 The brown marks could be blackcurrant leaf spot although without a picture it’s difficult to say precisely.I will add a section above on treating blackcurrant leaf spot. 90010 90008 If you send a picture to our 90006 email 90007 then I can diagnose it more accurately. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 14 June 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Denise B 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 Some of the stems on my blackcurrant bushes have balls of white on them, at first I thought it was bird poo but as it is in small balls right down the stems I wondered if its some kind of fungus 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: My first guess would be 90006 powdery mildew 90007 but it could also be Woolly Scale Insect (see the article above for a full description).If you send a picture to our 90006 email 90007 then I can diagnose it more accurately. 90010 90008 90006 PICTURE AND DIAGNOSIS 90007: The picture below was sent in and it was identified by experts as scale insects not bird poo! In all probability it is Woolly Scale insects but whatever the scale insect the treatment is the same. See the paragraph above entitled Woolly (Vine) Scale Insect for much more information. 90010 90008 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 25 May 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Shirley 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 I have suffered what I now know is run-off with my only blackcurrant bush.What do I do with it cut it right down, prune it mildly or dig it up? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: Run-off (see above section «Fruits Fall off Before they are Ripe «for a detailed description) is normally caused by bad weather conditions and there is no certainty that it will occur next year. So I would give your blackcurrant bush another year. Pruning correctly (see here) and at the correct time will give it every chance at producing fruit next year. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 25 May 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Marty 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 I have two blackcurrant bushes, about four weeks ago both were really healthy looking with lots of fruit.Now both are looking poorly, leaves and fruit falling off, leaves becoming coloured and heavily infested with aphids. I’ve tried the soapy water spray, but the bush seems to be dying by the day. Any advice please. Thanks. 90006 90008 ANSWER 90010 90007: Join the club Marty! I have three blackcurrant bushes, all the same variety and two are just like yours. As well as soapy water I regularly give the plants a gentle shake and loads of aphids fall off. I also squash as many as I can with my fingers.I would spray them, the damage done is quite significant, but I will then not be able to eat the small crop they have grown this year. 90002 I have come to the conclusion that the two badly performing ones were rather water-logged during the winter / spring and this is the reason. In autumn I will will move them to a position less likely to get water logged. In very nearly the same position though the raspberries appear to be doing fine so I will plant a couple more in the area vacated by the moved blackcurrant bushes.90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date: 24 May 2014 90007 90159 90156 90006 From: Brenda M 90007 90159 90164 90155 90166 I have white sticky substance on the branches of the black currant, have I pruned the plant to late. It was in flower when I did it. Can I save the plants with a spray? Thank you 90006 90008 ANSWER 90010 90007: This is Woolly Scale Insect and I have added a section above to answer some of your question.I think that pruning your blackcurrant bush in May has left the pruned area as a target for this pest which likes to suck the sap from the tree. Pruning earlier in the year will avoid this. 90159 90164 90179 90002 90154 90155 90156 90006 Date 90007: 17 May 2014 90159 90156 90006 From: 90007 Carol 90159 90164 90155 90166 My blackcurrants set lots of fruit — but when we came back form holiday all developing green fruit has either been bitten or fallen off.Is this due to birds or something more sinister? 90008 90006 ANSWER 90007: This is called run-off and I have added a section above ( «Fruits Fall off Before They Are Ripe «) containing more details. 90010 90159 90164 90179 90008 90577 WHY NOT LEAVE YOUR QUESTION / COMMENTS ABOUT THIS PAGE? 90002 ENTER THEM BELOW. 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