Когда надо обрезать ремонтантную малину осенью: Схема правильной обрезки ремонтантной малины осенью, весной, в течение года, особенности, правила ухода

схема и правила для начинающих, выращивание и уход

Примечательной особенностью ремонтантной малины является ее способность плодоносить как на стеблях второго года, так и на молодых побегах текущего сезона. Этот факт укоренил в сознании большинства начинающих садоводов уверенность в возможности получения двойного урожая с ремонтантных сортов. Такой принцип возделывания культуры не совсем верен. Летний урожай на побегах второго года ослабляет растение и задерживает срок второй волны плодоношения, приходящегося на позднелетний и осенний периоды. Кроме того, снижаются общие показатели урожайности растения, и получаемая с него ягода мельчает. Исключение составляют только сорта-тутаймеры, которые без последствий могут выдержать два урожая за один сезон. Поэтому грамотная и своевременная обрезка ремонтантной малины позволяет садоводу регулировать процессы плодоношения этого кустарника.

1

Циклы развития ремонтантной малины

Несмотря на то что малина относится к многолетникам, цикл развития надземной части этого растения завершается в течение двух лет. И для того чтобы определиться со способом возделывания ягодника ремонтантной малины, следует ознакомиться с особенностями этой культуры, с циклами ее роста и развития. На протяжении вегетационного периода происходят следующие процессы:

• У перезимовавшего стебля малины (у обычной это будет единственный плодоносящий стебель) из почек отрастают плодовые ветки, на которых и будет формироваться первый урожай.
• Из почек на корневище образуется несколько побегов замещения с листьями и почками. У ремонтантных сортов молодые стебли способны в течение сезона получить интенсивное развитие и уже в конце лета вступить в фазу плодоношения.
• После отдачи первого урожая отплодоносивший двухлетний побег растения отмирает до основания.
• В конце лета и в начале осени на верхушках однолетних побегов малины формируется второй урожай.
• Часть почек однолетнего побега остается в спящем состоянии до следующего вегетативного периода. И перезимовавший побег будет считаться стеблем второго года.
• Весной верхушки двухлетнего побега отсыхают, и оставшаяся часть стебля ветвится и покрывается ягодами.

Правила и схема обрезки винограда осенью для начинающих

2

Правила обрезки

Начинающий садовод, приобретая ремонтантные сорта малины, рассчитывает на получение двух урожаев в текущем вегетативном периоде растения. Он обрезает только отплодоносившие и отмершие двухлетние побеги и применяет те же агротехнические приемы, как и при выращивании обычной летней малины. В итоге посадка сильно загущается, а недостаток света негативно сказывается не только на внешнем виде кустарника, но и на общем количестве урожая. Многие садоводы отмечают, что ягода летнего урожая при таком способе возделывания недостаточно крупная и сочная. И к моменту формирования второй волны плодоношения материнский куст не успевает восстановиться и набрать силу и, как следствие, не все ягоды успевают созреть до наступления холодов.

На практике ремонтантную малину целесообразней выращивать в однолетней культуре и получать от растения единственный, но качественный урожай, который сформируется на молодых побегах в конце лета – начале осени. Для этого нужно произвести обрезку ремонтантной малины осенью по всем правилам, а именно: после плодоношения срезать все побеги на уровне почвы. При такой технологии весной у ремонтантных сор­тов начнут интенсивно нарастать однолетние побеги, на которых к середине лета образуются плодовые веточки, а ближе к осени созреет урожай ягоды.

Правила обрезки деревьев в саду и пошаговая инструкция для начинающих садоводов

3

Преимущества ремонтантных сортов

Кроме мощной силы роста, ремонтантная малина обладает рядом преимуществ перед обычной летней малиной:

• Начало плодоношения растения приходится на первый год посадки, что позволяет собрать и продегустировать ягоду уже в текущем сезоне.
• Ремонтантные сорта отличаются повышенной стойкостью к различным вирусным заболеваниям.
• Влияние вредителей на такие сорта минимальны, так как большинство вредных насекомых выносится за пределы участка вместе с обрезанными побегами в конце вегетационного периода. По этой же причине ремонтантная малина отличается повышенной стойкостью к различным грибковым заболеваниям. Споры грибка, возбуждающего болезни, зимуют на стеблях растения, и подзимнее сплошное скашивание надземной части дает возможность минимизировать риск заражения малины грибковыми и инфекционными заболеваниями.
• Отсутствует необходимость обработки малины фунгицидами и инсектицидами. Поэтому снижается себестоимость ягоды и временные затраты на получение урожая. Кроме того, плоды, полученные с такого растения, экологически чистые и обладают особой целительной силой.
• Ремонтантная малина, по причине отсутствия надземной части, не нуждается в укрытии на зиму. Корень растения может выдержать до -20 °С, но такой температуры даже в верхнем корнеобитаемом слое почвы практически не бывает.
• Необходимость борьбы с прикорневой порослью отпадает, так как ремонтантные сорта почти не выдают корневых отпрысков. Многие садоводы этот факт считают существенным недостатком по причине трудности размножения культуры.
• При соблюдении правильной агротехники способны давать в 2-3 раза больше ягод, чем обыкновенная малина.

У садовода действительно появляется возможность собрать два урожая в течение сезона: летний он получит на саженцах обычной малины, а осенний – на ремонтантных сортах.

Правила сезонной обрезки деревьев для начинающих

4

Выращивание ягоды

Учитывая природу ремонтантной малины, ее склонность к бурному росту и все биологические процессы, которые происходят в два раза быстрее, чем у обычных сортов, садоводу следует подготовиться к повышенному уходу за этим растением.

Ремонтантная малина предъявляет особые требования к плодородию и увлажнению почвы, освещению и теплу. Приобретая саженец этой культуры, нужно разработать и организовать ряд мероприятий, которые включают:

• выбор места для ягодника и подготовку почвы;
• определение схемы посадки;
• уход за ягодником.

4.1

Выбор места и подготовка почвы

Для саженцев подготавливается самое освещенное место на приусадебном участке. Даже небольшое затенение задерживает срок созревания ягоды, что негативным образом сказывается на будущем урожае. Здесь важно соблюсти правило: чем больше солнца, тем выше урожайность.

Лучшее место для закладки ягодника – это южная сторона дома или хозяйственных построек. Подойдут для этих целей заборы, плодовые деревья и другие ягодные кустарники. Словом, все те объекты, которые, не затеняя ягодник, будут прикрывать его от холодных ветров с севера.

Ремонтантная малина способна расти на любых почвах, но если садовод желает получить высокий урожай ягоды, то и почву малине нужно предоставить соответственную. Хорошо развивается растение на рыхлой и плодородной земле. Выращиваясь на почвах с большим содержанием торфа и гумуса, растение демонстрирует мощный рост и требует опоры.

Перед тем как посадить малину, нужно подготовить и внести достаточную дозу питательных веществ в почву, которая будет находиться под культурой. В посадочные ямы или траншеи закладывается смесь, состоящая из комплекса минеральных удобрений, перепревшего навоза, компоста и золы. Комплекс минеральных удобрений можно заменить суперфосфатом и калием. В случае если садовод придерживается природного земледелия и является противником удобрений химического происхождения, то ему необходимо внести в почву повышенное количество органики. Во время всего периода вегетации малина нуждается в систематических подкормках, потому что растение усилено расходует питание на свой рост и развитие.

При выборе участка рекомендуется обратить внимание на культуры-предшественники, и ни в коем случае не использовать для посадки бывший малинник. Также нежелательно закладывать ягодную плантацию на участке, где предыдущей культурой были пасленовые. Если у садовода нет возможности выполнить данные рекомендации, то можно провести очищение почвы и соблюсти севооборот при помощи сидератов. Для этого участок засеивается выбранной сидеральной культурой или смесью. При нарастании достаточного количества зеленной массы растение запахивается в корнеобитаемый слой почвы.

4.2

Схема посадки

Грамотная посадка малины весной является важным агротехническим мероприятием. При выборе способа посадки малины садовод обязан не допустить загущенности насаждений. Растение не должно испытывать дефицит в освещении и аэрации. Оптимальным вариантом считается расположение 4 побегов на одном квадратном метре. К тому же стоит учитывать индивидуальные свойства ремонтантных сортов, их силу роста и способность производить замещающие побеги.

Для большинства сортов рекомендуется использовать ленточную посадку и выдерживать расстояние в 0,5 м между растениями и 1,5 м между рядами. При такой схеме посадки между растениями сохраняется свободное пространство, что позволяет соответствовать выдвигаемым требованиям к насаждениям. Желательно расположить растения с севера на юг – это дает возможность растениям развиваться и отдавать урожай равномерно.

Также можно организовать посадку ремонтантной малины гнездовым способом. В этом случае растения располагаются друг от друга на расстоянии двух метров. Такую схему целесообразно применять на небольших участках с ограниченным количеством малины разного сорта.

4.3

Уход за ягодником

На протяжении всего периода эксплуатации ягодной плантации нужно следить за структурой и влажностью почвы, освобождать участок от сорной травы и отмерших побегов. Мульчирование почвы между рядами малины благоприятно сказывается на оптимизации влажности почвенного покрова, на увеличении количества дождевых червей и на улучшении среды для размножения микроорганизмов. Поэтому нелишним будет позаботиться о мульчирующем материале, который может быть в виде сена и соломы, компоста и перегноя, агроволокна, перепревших опилок, лузги семечек, хвойного опада, картона или бумаги.

Перед зимним периодом покоя малинника, во избежание распространения грибковых заболеваний и вредителей, непереработанная мульча со

90000 Repaired raspberries (photo) — features of planting and care 90001 90002 90003 90004 90005 90002 90003 What is the difference between repairing raspberry and ordinary 90004 90005 90002 The main difference between the raspberry and the regular is that the usual, so-called summer raspberry yields a good harvest only once a year — at the very end of the first summer month, while the repair plant allows harvesting twice a season. The first time in June, and the second — in August or the first month of autumn.90005 90002 In modern varieties of repair raspberry before frost, usually more than 90% of ovaries mature, which is a good indicator. The possibility of collecting double crops is an undoubted plus of culture, however, one should keep in mind that repair classes require a little more care, which consists both in additional watering and fertilizing. 90005 90014 90002 See also: Raspberry repair — growing, varieties, care, reproduction. 90005 90014 90018 Repaired raspberry — planting 90019 90020 90002 Plant raspberry raspberry most often late in the autumn, in this case, its survival rate is significantly increased, and the first berries can be harvested as early as next year, at the end of summer.It is allowed to plant a repair raspberry in the spring, but very early, as soon as the snow comes down. In the center of Russia this period falls on April, while it is impossible to delay with planting. After the planting in spring, it is strictly necessary to water and mulch the soil with peat or rotted sawdust. 90005 90002 For planting it is better to choose lungs or medium sod-podzolic soils, on such raspberries grows best. 90005 90025 90002 90027 OUR COUNCIL 90028 90005 90002 90027 When planting, you need to inspect seedlings.select the most robust, healthy, while the roots of them should be further dipped into a clay blubber. 90028 90005 90002 90027 After planting, the plant should be shortened by about a third. 90028 90005 90002 90027 Ideally, on each meter of the strip there should be about two dozen shoots, half of which must be represented by two-year plans, and the other half by one-year, that is, replacing their shoots. 90028 90005 90042 90018 Competent approach 90019 90020 90002 Plant the plants by laying the roots in separate pits and trenches.When planting, it is important not to bury the root collar of the seedling, it should even be located at the soil level even after subsidence. In the pit when planting it is desirable to add about half a bucket of humus and the same amount of peat, as well as a couple of tablespoons of azofosca and superphosphate, «dilute» all this with wood ash (400-500 g). 90005 90002 The most important thing to remember: do not repair the raspberry raspberry in an effort to collect more harvest per unit area.So you not only do not increase the yield of berries, but you can provoke the occurrence of fungal diseases. The optimal option (with row planting) is to leave between rows of the order of 1,5-2 m, and between plants — about 70 cm. 90005 90018 Raspberry repair — care 90019 90020 90002 Further, post-planting, care for the repair raspberry consists of periodic irrigation, loosening of the soil, removal of weeds, fertilization, pruning and combating diseases and pests. 90005 90002 Keep in mind that raspberries in general, and repair in particular, is a very moisture-loving culture.The root system is located close to the surface of the soil, and the plants can not survive a prolonged drought, without irrigation. However, one should keep in mind that watering should be sufficient, but not excessive, in case of waterlogging the roots may begin to rot and die off. 90005 90002 With regard to loosening, the optimal depth, again due to the close arrangement of the roots to the soil surface, should be no more than 7 cm. Loosening should preferably be combined with irrigation and mulching or fertilization.90005 90018 We spend feeding 90019 90020 90002 By the way about fertilizers: remontant raspberries can be started to be fed from March, but it all depends on the region of its cultivation, because in the colder regions in March, snow can still lie. For spring top dressing it is necessary to use a complex mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. 90005 90002 The next top dressing is preferably done before raspberry bloom. To do this, you need to dissolve the order of 2-3 tablespoons of double superphosphate and two spoons of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water.Such a solution is enough for a square meter of raspberries. And, finally, the third feeding, it should be carried out in the autumn season, after all the shoots complete fruiting. For the third feeding in a bucket of water, dissolve a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate and one potassium sulfate, this solution is also enough for one square meter. 90005 90025 90002 90027 OUR COUNCIL 90028 90005 90002 90027 On the lack of nitrogen, the repair raspberry is called retardation of growth and yellowing of the foliage.90028 90005 90002 90027 If this phenomenon is observed and you are sure that there is enough moisture in the soil, then you need to additionally add 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate, diluted in a bucket of water, in terms of a square meter of soil. 90028 90005 90042 90018 Pruning raspberry raspberry and preventive measures 90019 90020 90002 90005 90002 Trim raspberry repair is better in November or October, while cutting all the otter-worn shoots to the soil level. Autumn pruning raspberry raspberry will protect the shoots of the plant from the wintering stages of pests and diseases.90005 90002 By the way about them: the raspberry patch often suffers from fungal diseases and from pests that attack it during the flowering period. To save plants from the manifestation of diseases, allowed chemical preparations are allowed, but they can be applied only before flowering. For example, in April, as soon as the air warms up to 12-16 ES, you can use 3% Bordeaux fluid or other copper-containing preparations. 90005 90002 Against pests will help preparations like «Aktofita», after treatment, its activity persists for two weeks.In the autumn of the plant raspberry raspberry can be examined for the presence of a dangerous pest — a crimson mosquito, more precisely its larvae. If you notice heavily swollen stems, then there is a high probability that there is a larva of a mosquito, such stems must be cut and burned. 90005 90014 90002 Reference by topic: Repaired raspberry — the advantages of cultivating the repairing varieties 90005 90014 90018 Popular varieties of raspberry raspberry 90019 90020 90002 In conclusion, I want to briefly talk about the most popular varieties of repair raspberry.90005 90002 «90003 Atlas 90004″ — is a medium-sized bush, giving berries weighing up to 8 g, sweet and sour taste, with tender flesh; «90003 Apricot 90004″ — a variety that forms yellow fruits weighing about 4 g; «Indian Summer» is a medium-sized bush with berries of mass 3-4 g, bright red color; 90005 90002 «90003 Diamond 90004″ — this variety yields fruits of mass 3,5-4 g, ruby ​​color with gloss; 90005 90002 «90003 The Bryansk Diva» 90004 — a record mass of fruits — up to 11 g, excellent taste and attractive scarlet color; 90005 90002 «90003 Hercules 90004″ — Suitable for small plots, yields fruits up to 10 g, ruby ​​color, universal purpose; 90005 90002 «90003 Eurasia 90004″ — one of the most common varieties of patch raspberry, yields fruits of mass 4-5 g, dark crimson color and good taste; « 90005 90002 90003 Firebird 90004 «- The berries of this variety have a conical shape, mass up to 6 g and sweet and sour, dessert taste;» Golden Autumn «- its fruits are rare for raspberry golden color, they are tasty and useful, and the mass equal to 7 g makes the grade one of the most desired; 90005 90002 «90003 The Orange Miracle 90004″ — another repair yellow-fruit variety with delicious fruits weighing up to 9 g; 90005 90002 «90003 Penguin 90004″ — just for those who have a small plot, and want to plant the maximum number of different crops, plants of this variety are only a meter high, berries reach a mass of 5 g and have a pleasant dark crimson color ; 90005 90002 «90003 Ruby Necklace 90004» — this variety gives fruits of mass about 8 g, bright ruby ​​color and very pleasant taste.90005 90002 © Author: Wonderful specialist Nikolai Khromov. Photo of the author 90005 90140 90141 ORDER QUALITATIVE AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD AND COTTAGE GOODS. PRICES OF COOKIES. TESTED! JUST VIEW YOURSELF AND BE SURPRISED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>> 90142 90005 90144 Below other entries on the topic «Dacha and garden — with their own hands» 90145 90146 Cultivation of varieties of raspberry raspberry in Chuvashia: planting and care: Repairing raspberries in Chuvashia -… 90147 90146 What is the difference between raspberry remontant and ordinary ?: DIFFERENCE IN CARE BETWEEN USUAL … 90147 90146 Reproduction of raspberry raspberry with «nettle» — young shoots: Reproduction of remont raspberries I bought a wonderful variety … 90147 90146 Growing raspberries on the technology of «long escape»: Harvest raspberries in May or … 90147 90146 Variety of raspberry raspberry Veronica: Cultivation of patchwork raspberry — variety … 90147 90146 Repaired raspberries in Siberia — the secret of growing: Growing repairing raspberries in Siberia Repairing… 90147 90146 Repaired raspberry — planting and grooming varieties in the Kirov region: Growing remont raspberries in Vyatka More … 90014 90160 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90145 90160 Let’s be friends! 90145 90147.90000 Autumn pruning of raspberry raspberry 90001 90002 Not all grades are cut equally 90003 90004 In recent years, a number of new large-fruited varieties of raspberries appeared, among which there are both repair and non-remontant varieties. In the repair raspberry the main crop is obtained on young summer shoots, which after fruiting are cut out completely. It turns out that raspberry will be wintering without … raspberries. 90005 90004 Just planted weak seedlings can not be cut in autumn at all — leave the stem 15-20 see.After all, the root system is still weak, and the green stem will provide some nutrition to the plant until the frosts. Such pruning in the year of planting is done and in ordinary varieties of raspberries. 90005 90004 In spring, both new shoots (from the ground) will begin to grow, and the buds will wake up to the overwintered ones. If they arise from them, peduncles, then they must be removed, and on young shoots then — too. In this first year, all efforts (both yours and plants) should be directed to the development of the root system and the bush as a whole.90005 90004 And next autumn (late, before the coldest) in varieties 90011 Inaccessible, Bryansk wonder 90012 etc. all the shoots can be cut to the soil level. In spring, a strong root system will throw out powerful shoots, in which a significant raspberry crop will ripen in August. 90005 90004 Some gardeners, wanting to get a big crop, cut the stems not completely, leaving them about 1 m long. 90005 90004 In early summer, the first crop ripens on them, and at the end — the second, already on the young shoots.But not so much the increase of the harvest is great, as the hassle is added: stems for winter should be tied up and covered, increased doses of fertilizers applied, and watered more. 90005 90004 It is better to get one good harvest at the end of summer or early autumn, when there are no delicious berries in the garden. 90005 90020 90004 See also: Raspberry repair — growing, orta, care and reproduction 90005 90020 90004 Grade 90011 raspberry raspberry Yellow giant 90012 although it shows patency, but the main crop forms on last year’s stems.Therefore, it is not cut off and for the winter shoots are connected, 90005 90004 bend to the ground and cover. But in the summer it ripens early, it hardly affects the diseases. 90005 90004 «Berries are large, with good care grow from a large strawberry, sweet, tender, amber-yellow color. The variety reproduces easily and quickly. In the snowless winters, freezing of the root system was not observed. In a word, it’s a great variety for local conditions, which I have not found a substitute for yet «- says the well-known Siberian gardener-experimenter, the head of the farm» Abrikos «Piskunov Evgeny Ivanovich.90005 90002 It is possible and spring pruning raspberry raspberry 90003 90004 In a number of regions, it is advisable to transfer the pruned shoots to early spring. Firstly, spring pruning is attractive for areas with warm winters, where after the fruiting the shoots can still vegetate and accumulate nutrients for a crop of the next year. 90005 90004 In addition, it has been established that if soil freezing does not occur after the autumn pruning during 4-5 weeks, premature growth of the kidneys on the rhizome may occur, which will adversely affect the future crop.90005 90004 Secondly, spring pruning is preferable for regions with a harsh climate and little snowy winters. 90005 90020 90004 Reference by topic: Cultivation of repair raspberry — personal experience 90005 90020 90004 In this case, unsuccessful fertilized shoots will contribute to better snow retention. In the spring, if you wait for the buds to begin blooming and immediately after the pruning, the plant will be replenished with growth substances that are synthesized only in budding leaves, and are necessary for the plant to quickly spring awaken.90005 90004 For northern regions this is very important, since the faster the raspberry raspberries «wake up» and the shoots start growing more actively, the greater the yield can the horticulturist expect. 90005 90048 90049 ORDER QUALITATIVE AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD AND COTTAGE GOODS. PRICES OF COOKIES. TESTED! JUST VIEW YOURSELF AND BE SURPRISED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>> 90050 90005 90052 Below other entries on the topic «Dacha and garden — with their own hands» 90053 90054 What is the difference between raspberry remontant and ordinary ?: DIFFERENCE IN CARE BETWEEN USUAL… 90055 90054 Repaired raspberries in Siberia — the secret of growing: Growing repairing raspberries in Siberia Repairing … 90055 90054 Double pruning raspberries: Pruning raspberries: twice per … 90055 90054 Variety of raspberry raspberry Veronica: Cultivation of patchwork raspberry — variety … 90055 90054 Reproduction of raspberry raspberry with «nettle» — young shoots: Reproduction of remont raspberries I bought a wonderful variety … 90055 90054 Cultivation of varieties of raspberry raspberry in Chuvashia: planting and care: Repairing raspberries in Chuvashia — … 90055 90054 Repair raspberry to frost (+ VIDEO): Raspberry REPAIR — FRUIT BEFORE … 90020 90068 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90053 90068 Let’s be friends! 90053 90055.90000 When Can Blackberries & Raspberries Be Transplanted? | Home Guides 90001 90002 Blackberries and raspberries (Rubus spp.) Are so easy to grow that some species are considered weeds. Blackberries grow well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, while raspberries thrive in zones 3 through 11. These rugged plants do not resent being moved either. The process is essentially the same whether you buy transplants at the nursery or dig brambles up yourself.90003 90004 Timing 90005 90002 Blackberries and raspberries do best if they are planted while they are dormant. This is when the 2-year-old canes have died and the 1-year-old canes have stopped growing for the season. Anytime during the late winter and on into the early spring is best. If you must transplant them at a different time of the year, you are likely to find that they recover and begin growing just fine, though it may take them a bit longer to start producing. 90003 90004 Growing Conditions 90005 90002 Both raspberries and blackberries grow in almost any type of soil, but they do best in soil that is not too heavy with clay.They thrive in soil that is naturally fertile, or that has been amended with compost or other fertilizer to add nutrients as well as texture. One factor that is extremely important for both types of berries is drainage. Soil that holds too much water, has a shallow water table or is in an area where water tends to pool is not suitable for these cane berries, since they are likely to succumb to root rot or other diseases. 90003 90004 Methods 90005 90002 Blackberry and raspberry plants are set into holes that are large enough to hold the root balls without crushing, folding or compacting them.If the roots are too big, it’s generally safe to prune them back a bit so that the plants fit. This is also a good time to cut off any dead or damaged roots. Roots should be covered with soil until they are at the same depth as they were prior to being transplanted. Prune the tops of the newly transplanted canes, leaving only about 3 to 4 inches above the ground. 90003 90004 Tips 90005 90002 Feeding transplanted berries once they begin to blossom helps to improve their yield. Plenty of water, as long as it can drain away, helps the new transplants get established and will also support the growth and formation of berries.After harvest, oldest canes can be cut off at ground level, since these only get in the way from this point on. Most types of raspberries and blackberries benefit from the use of a trellis, fence or other support, since without support they grow in big, tangled mounds and it is difficult to harvest the fruit. 90003.90000 MALINA REPAIR — GROWING, GRADE, CARE, BREEDING 90001 90002 If you land on your site a few early and mid-late summer and 90003 raspberry varieties 90004, then provide yourself with a harvest of delicious berries for the whole season. 90005 90002 The majority of summer residents plant on their sites raspberry summer maturation or 90003 repair grade 90004 this berry. The first yields on two-year-old wood at the end of June, while the second yields on one- and two-year-old stems and can yield two crops — in June and August-September.90005 90010 Features of the repair raspberry 90011 90012 90002 Repaired raspberries can be grown for one or two crops. Having removed the first crop in annual stems in August-September, the next year you can get an early harvest (approximately at 20 in June) already on two-year-old wood. However, the quality of the berries of the second crop is inferior to the usual varieties of raspberries: they are smaller, bony and dry. In addition, the summer harvest 90003 raspberry raspberry 90004 tightens and worsens the second, summer-autumn fruiting.The plant gives all its strength to the maturing of the summer harvest and to the growth of annual shoots of replacement, on which the second crop then ripens. 90005 90002 Cultivating the repair grade for two crops makes sense only with good nutrition and irrigation of the crop. For the majority of gardeners and gardeners, the optimal solution will be the use of raspberry raspberry for a single crop. 90005 90010 Pruning after fruiting 90011 90012 90002 For the annual receipt of a high yield of quality fruits, raspberries need to regularly cut off the fertilized shoots.In the case of summer varieties, all two-year-old stems immediately after fruiting (in July) are cut to the ground level. The strongest annual shoots are left for next year’s harvest. Repair varieties are also carved after fruiting — in November-December. In order to get one summer-autumn harvest of the repair raspberry next year, all shoots are cut to the ground level without leaving anything for the next year. 90005 90010 Spring sanitary pruning 90011 90012 90002 Many gardeners, trying to give the bushes a well-groomed appearance, trim the tips of the stems to a height of 1-1,5 m.However, since raspberries begin to bear fruit from the tops of the stems, cutting them will not only delay the beginning of fruiting, but also reduce the yield. 90005 90002 To ensure high quality of berries, you need only perform spring sanitary pruning. To do this, the first healthy kidney is cut (usually remove 10-15 cm) those branches that withered and froze during the winter. Pruning is performed in April, when the buds on the bushes begin to swell and it is easy to determine which one is healthy.90005 90010 Topping 90011 90012 90002 Circumcision of the tips of the stems makes sense only if necessary to delay the beginning of fruiting raspberries. For this, in May, at 20-25 cm, all healthy two-year-old shoots of summer varieties are cut off. 90005 90002 If early and medium late varieties are planted on the site, then pinching is actual for medium-late varieties. Here, a smaller number of berries will be compensated for by delayed harvest terms. As a result, in June it will be possible to enjoy early summer raspberries, in July — mid-summer, and in August-September — repair.90005 90010 Density adjustment 90011 90012 90002 Strong thickening of raspberry leads to the inhibition of plants and can provoke the development of fungal diseases. Cultivate this culture is a strip, between which the minimum distance in 1-13 m is left. When using trellises, the strip is left with a width of 20-30 cm, and with free growth of bushes — 50 cm. 90005 90002 At 1 m of each strip, no more 15-20 shoots are allowed to grow. And half of them (in the case of summer varieties) should be two-year-old fruiting stems, and half-one-year-old shoots of substitution.90005 90010 Application of fertilizers 90011 90012 90002 Top dressing of raspberries is carried out in March, according to the permafrost soil. For balanced soils, complex nitrogen-potassium phosphate fertilizers are used, for example, 1 match box of nitro ammophos is added to the 1 m chopper. If there is a lack of nitrogen, when the leaves turn yellow and the growth slows down, 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate is applied to 10 l of water at the rate of 1 m 90049 2 90050. 90005 90002 The second fertilizing of plants is done before flowering: in 10 liters of water at 1 m 90049 2 90050 dissolve 3 art.l. double superphosphate and 2 st. l. potassium sulfate. In the fall, after removing the shoots that have been harvested, another additional dressing is performed: for 1 m 90049 2 90050 in 10 l water dissolve 2 st. l. superphosphate and 1 st. l. potassium sulfate. 90005 90002 In addition, raspberries need periodic (at least once in 3 year) application of organic fertilizers. It is best to use cow, sheep, goat, pig or horse dung at the rate of 5 kg at 1 m 90049 2 90050. 90005 90010 Protection of raspberry 90011 90012 90002 Use any chemical remedies to protect raspberry only before flowering.From fungal diseases — anthracnose and didymella treatment is done in late March — early April (with air temperature + 10-15 ° C) or after harvesting. To do this, apply 3-percent (for vegetative plants — 1-percentage) Bordeaux fluid or other copper-containing preparations. 90005 90002 From pests that damage plants during flowering, for example from a raspberry beetle, it is better to use biopreparations. So, «Aktofit» is effective for 7-12 days. After harvesting, you need to inspect all the stems for larvae of a crimson mosquito — gall midges.In those places where this insect has settled, the stem is swollen. These shoots need to be cut and burned. 90005 90002 90003 Plant a raspberry 90004 and summer, and repairing varieties usually in the fall, then it gets better. In this case, the first full-fledged harvest of patch raspberry you will receive in August-September next year, and the first harvest of summer raspberries — only after one June. 90005 90002 It is possible and spring planting seedlings. It is carried out in April, when the plants have not yet entered the phase of active vegetation.In this case, the seedlings need to be cut and watered for about a month — until it becomes clear that the plant has taken root. 90005 90002 In the autumn planting of annual vegetating seedlings, sprouts are carefully inspected and selected strong specimens with a well-developed root system. Before landing, the above-ground stems are shortened, and the roots dipped in the soil mash. Cuttings are laid horizontally on the bottom of the furrow at a distance of 30-50 cm and covered with fertile soil, and then pruned to ground level.90005 90002 Malines are suitable for light or medium sod-podzolic soils, filled with organic. Fertilize the land should not be a chicken litter, in which there is a lot of nitrogen, but with a rotted compost or cow manure. In this case, the soil with fertilizers must be mixed, so that the root system of the seedlings does not touch them. 90005 90010 Some tips for growing raspberry raspberry 90011 90012 90082 90083 In windy and sunny winters shoots of raspberries, afflicted with fungal diseases, almost completely dry up.90084 90083 Incorrect pruning: if the lignified stalk is not cut to the ground level, the risk of fungal diseases will increase. 90084 90083 Varietal differences: while the stamping raspberry «Kozachka» starts the shoots of substitution and fructifies on two-year-old shoots, the remanent plantations of «Heritage» only gain height and are preparing for the late flowering. 90084 90089 90010 Popular and quality varieties of raspberry raspberry 90011 90012 90002 90003 1 Persea 90004 90005 90002 Early summer 90005 90002 Shoots are high, erect.Berries — large and medium, dark red, one-dimensional, conical, easily separated from the stalk, sweet and sour. The variety of simultaneous ripening, winter and drought-resistant, is resistant to fungal diseases. 90005 90002 90003 2 Sanya 90004 90005 90002 Early summer 90005 90002 Shoots — high, erect, with drooping top. Berries — large and medium, bright red, one-dimensional, conical, easily separated from the stalk, sweet and sour. The variety of simultaneous ripening, winter and drought-resistant.90005 90002 90003 3 Noble 90004 90005 90002 Mid-late summer, stamping 90005 90002 Shoots are vigorous, high, besshipnye. Berries — large, conical, one-dimensional, easily separated from the stalk, saturated red, dense. A variety of extended maturation, transportable. 90005 90002 90003 4 Yellow giant 90004 90005 90002 Mid-late summer, yellow-fruited 90005 90002 Shoots are powerful, high. Berries — large, one-dimensional, light yellow, spherical. The variety of extended maturation, characterized by stable yield, high winter hardiness.90005 90002 90003 5 Scoop 90004 90005 90002 Mid-late summer, stamping 90005 90002 Shoots — sredneroslye, bezshipnye. The berries are medium and large, spherical, dark red. The variety of simultaneous ripening, winter and drought-resistant, is relatively resistant to fungal diseases. 90005 90002 90003 6 Cumberland 90004 90005 90002 Mid-late summer, black-berry 90005 90002 Shoots are medium-sized with a lot of thorns. The berries are small, sweet, roundish, black and purple.The variety of simultaneous ripening, drought and wintering, resistant to diseases and pests, transportable. 90005 90002 90003 7 Maria 90004 90005 90002 Middle-aged summer 90005 90002 Shoots are medium-sized, the number of spines is medium. The berries are medium and large, turgid, red, sweet-sour. A variety of simultaneous ripening, high-yielding, winter-hardy, unpretentious. 90005 90002 90003 8 Patricia 90004 90005 90002 Middle-aged summer 90005 90002 Shoots — sredneroslye, polusraskidye.The berries are large and very large, conical, of medium density, they are removed from the fruiting not breaking down, they do not crumble. The variety is characterized by moderate winter hardiness, resistant to major diseases. 90005 90002 90003 9 Phenomenon 90004 90005 90002 Middle-aged summer 90005 90002 Shoots — sredneraskidistye, high, slightly shishy. The berries are large, conical, dense, crimson-red, sweet. The variety is characterized by stable yield, transportable. 90005 90002 90003 10 Golden domes 90004 90005 90002 Early, yellow-fruit repair 90005 90002 Shoots — sredneroslye, sredneraskidistye.The berries are large, conical, golden-orange, sweet and sour. The variety is resistant to the main fungal diseases and pests. 90005 90002 90003 11 Heritage 90004 90005 90002 Repaired late 90005 90002 Shoots are straight, vigorous. Berries — medium, red, do not crumble for a long time, they are well removed from the peduncle, transportable. The variety is high-yielding, medium-resistant to pests and diseases. 90005 90002 Councils of experienced gardeners and additional information on the cultivation of all varieties and types of raspberries: 90005 90002 1.IP Zeiler. 90005 90002 It so happened that in the 1980-ies I went to visit my sister in Kachkanar, Sverdlovsk region. At the cottage she saw an amazing remontant raspberry variety Festivalny. I was literally hooked this raspberries, very much wanted to breed it — at home. What I did. 90005 90002 I dug up not 1 seedlings, but roots with sprouting sprouts, wrapped them in a wet rag and brought home. 90005 90002 Dug a small area on the bayonet. Gently laid the roots in a trench (the distance between the bushes 50-60 cm) and fell asleep on the ground.He began to water abundantly every other day. Three weeks later, strong sprouts appeared. Watered abundantly. By the end of August the height of the stems reached 2 m, and I pricked the tops. Imagine my surprise when the raspberry suddenly began to bloom down from above with large flowers, forming brushes. Fruited to the coldest, even-3-4 ° it stands well. Until November we were tearing out large maroon berries. 90005 90002 Propagating the raspberries, I occupied the site 4 × 4 m. We collect so many berries from it that children have enough to eat until late autumn, and also to weld jams into two families and to allocate to the neighbors.All these years I have cultivated only one of this variety and am pleased. 90005 90002 In the fall, when the frost kills the unripe berries, I begin pruning the bushes. On each leave 3-4 escape. I trim them to a height of 60 cm. Dry, excess shoots are cut off at the root. In the second year I cut out the raspberries completely, under the root. In spring, young shoots appear on each bush. Here I again delete the extra, leaving 3-4 on each. These shoots by autumn grow to a height of more than 2 m and give us a wonderful berry, which we do not rejoice.90005 90002 All other varieties that bear fruit all summer, I cleaned and cleaned the site and do not regret it. Look at the photo: the end of October, and we all tear our raspberries. 90005 90010 Cultivation of a patchwork raspberry: personal experience 90011 90012 90002 Other people’s advice 90005 90002 I want to tell you the story that happened to me and my raspberry raspberry. Several years ago I ordered two roots of different varieties in one agro-company: one is the Yellow giant, and the other is just a red one (do not be surprised, it’s me who invented such a name, because the real name was forgotten right away, as the package was burned in the stove, in which they sent raspberries).90005 90002 The seedlings were sent late, in early July. At that time, there was already a lot of heat, and my kids did not want to grow. I even poured them every day, and applied fertilizers carefully, and sheltered from the sun so and so, and they all sat without moving. At me already in the mornings in a habit has entered — first of all to run to look, as there my saplings feel. 90005 90002 In the second half of the summer the Yellow giant finally went into growth. By the end of the season, it stretched to 50 cm.I cut the sprouts, leaving 5 cm, covered them with dry sawdust and covered with cover material. And Red and sat like a sydnem, and only in the autumn he let out two sprouts in 7 cm and went with them under snow. Despite such bad behavior, I also hid it. 90005 90002 The next year the Yellow giant immediately, as normal weather set in, started to grow Decisively so was going to develop. And Krasny woke up later, thought for a long time, and cautiously began to rise. I looked after them the same way as for a simple raspberry.As a fertilizer, a small amount of dry manure in the aisle was closed twice a season. By the end of the summer, my raspberry seemed to have taken up my mind, rose well, but I did not give berries. For the winter, as many summer residents advise in the magazine, I cut it out level with the ground. 90005 90002 Unexpected surprise 90005 90002 And now our third «crimson» spring has come. I went somehow to drink tea to a neighbor, and during the conversation she boasted to me that in that year she had obtained two roots of a patchwork raspberry with red berries.After the feast, I asked her to show me them. We went to the garden, and there I saw a miracle: on two seedlings of raspberries were beautiful living and healthy branches on 40-50. See how? After all, many gardeners have proved that it is necessary to cut off the winter, otherwise nothing good will come of it later! 90005 90002 I was surprised by this picture, I thought about it all evening. And then for a long time she looked with suspicion at her gaining seedlings. True, they did this very slowly, and while the yellow raspberries still outperformed in the development of his neighbor.I was bored with all this, and in the middle of July I took it and pinched it at the yellow top of the sprouts — there is a lot of health, it means that it will withstand (and did not become red, and so dead ). And after that it grew so strong and violent that it seized the whole space around itself. 90005 90002 And in the height by the end of August, already up to 2 m, it was bulging! There were also large, dense berries. However, very late it happened, and then the cold came too early. In short, the whole harvest at me has frozen, had time to collect only a glass of berries.And on the red raspberry fruit was very little, and even small fry all some grown up. In general, I was so upset that I could not tell. Disappointed in the repair raspberries and lost interest in her. More to the plants did not fit, not sheared under the winter, did not bend, did not hide. All gone. 90005 90002 But next spring I looked at them, stood side by side, thought, a friend remembered, brought a pruner and cut off plants only dry inflorescences and thin frail twigs. Everything else is left as is.And again I forgot about the repair. I remembered only when ordinary raspberries began to ripen, I went to see how my whims were there. 90005 90002 І що ж? 90005 90002 Stand the Yellow Giant and Simply red yourself beautiful! All last year’s twigs allowed strong lateral processes that burst into blossom. And the harvest was very good (by the way, the berries had ripened simultaneously with a simple raspberry). And when the fruiting was over, then both yellow and red raspberries withered last year, they were covered with new shoots, and a second late harvest was obtained.90005 90002 90225 I must say that the berries of a patch of raspberry are still a bit more sour than ordinary. But to break in October from the branch of a fresh malinka, when there are no other berries, it is very pleasant. 90226 90005 90002 These are my adventures, after which I came to the conclusion that it is not necessary to cut raspberries at the end of the season. Probably, many will not agree with me, but there’s nothing I can do about it — the raspberries do not want to grow in a different way.90005 90002 © G. Dementieva Cold Glade. Tatarstan 90005 90002 90003 Malinnik — correct and clean 90004 90005 90002 To all buyers of seedlings, I always ask the question: «What do you want from this raspberry? If the berries are throughout the season, then in the first half of the summer they will be wormy, plus, as a rule, the spread of diseases, yield is less, and the size of the berry is smaller. To achieve something more, it is necessary to increase fertilizing and chemical treatment.Twice a season to produce pruning — and this is an additional expenditure of energy and energy, inconvenience in collecting berries. 90005 90002 Repaired raspberries I have been doing for more than 10 years. Fate brought me together with I.V. Kazakov, who brought out many unique varieties of patch raspberry. Through my garden (50 acres) and my hands, so many varieties of raspberries have passed! Many of them are widely advertised and distributed, and in each I see many pluses and minuses. 90005 90002 Raspberry I planted about 6 acres: b rows of 40 m in length and row spacing of 2 m.Berries I collect from 15 July to mid-October (if there is no frost), the harvest is 500-700 kg per season. But the main thing: I grow it correctly — only in this case the raspberry gives the crop as much as possible and the diseases spread less. I do not use chemistry at all, it’s the most important thing for me, my berry is always clean, besides, I care and harvest much easier. 90005 90002 Late in the autumn, I cut off all the stems that had been fertilized, destroyed them, and along with them, pests and diseases accumulated over the summer.She fell asleep with rows of manure (a layer of 10 cm) and forgot about them until the spring. In the spring I stretch out the cord. I leave along the cord every 10 cm for one plant, the rest I remove (they can be used for new plantings). Let them grow and water them as necessary. 90005 90002 Virtually almost all varieties require garters. Under the weight of berries the stems bend, the berries are polluted. 90005 90246 90002 90003 REPAIRING RASPBERRY REDUCE AS TOMATOES 90004 90005 90002 I bought my raspberries at the exhibition.I used to read a lot about raspberry raspberry. I will say at once: in the first year of the harvest you will not get. In the catalogs they write that the patch raspberry fructifies in the first year, as it blooms on annual shoots. This is its main difference from ordinary raspberries, which gives berries only on biennial stems. 90005 90002 Repaired raspberries for one year grows a new shoot and lays berries on it. This is also used in advertising articles, arguing that planting seedlings, you will already try berries in the first summer.But often the seedlings sell very small, especially when sent by mail. If they will blossom, then only by the end of summer, the berries do not have time to ripen. 90005 90002 But it does not matter. Simply seedlings should be grown to grow the root system. Strong plants will perfectly bear fruit, of course, if you buy a good variety and take care of it properly. 90005 90002 90003 FIRST TWO YEARS 90004 90005 90002 Saplings of patch raspberry are sold in containers. Suppose you bought them in the spring.The first season should be «missed» and not wait for the fruit. On the contrary, cut off all the buds so that the plant does not waste energy. 90005 90002 Care very carefully, feeding raspberries twice a month. Water so that the soil under the plant does not dry out and all the time it remains wet. Who does not have the opportunity to water often, be sure to mulch the roots of any organic. 90005 90002 In the first winter, the stem can not be cut off, leave it as a reference point, along which in the spring to determine where to wait for new shoots.As soon as they appear, the old stalk is cut off so that it does not take away the strength of the young. After all, they will be the autumn harvest. 90005 90002 Last year’s shoots of patched raspberry are also capable of bearing fruit, but we remove them to get more berries in the fall on new stems. In the middle strip of summer is short, and for two crops it is not enough. And in the south with raspberry raspberry harvest twice: on old shoots-in summer and on new-fall. 90005 90002 In August new ovaries are formed on new shoots.We leave only the largest berries, the rest we tear off the green ones. That is, in the second year we consciously reduce the harvest for the sake of copious fruiting in the future. 90005 90002 CARE — AS FOR TOMATOES 90005 90002 With good care for the third summer you will get strong bushes of repair raspberry, able to bear fruit abundantly. But for a plentiful harvest, you need to take care of it properly. I tell everyone that raspberries should be cherished as well as tomatoes. 90005 90002 Compare: tomatoes are a thermophilic perennial plant, which in our climate we grow as an annual culture.For one season, tomatoes give bush and fruit. 90005 90002 Similarly, with a patchwork raspberry. This is a perennial plant that we grow in a one-year cycle — for the winter we cut off all the stems. For one season, raspberries have two things at once: they grow young shoots and bear fruit on them. Conclusion: such plants need a lot of nutrition! 90005 90002 Planting seedlings of tomatoes in the ground, we understand that there is little time, and we need to ensure good nutrition and watering.Therefore, we often feed our tomatoes and water them regularly. 90005 90002 And what does raspberries get? In the best case, we will use it in a drought, forget about feeding! If an ordinary raspberry forgives such a «withdrawal», the repairman delays the fruiting, which causes some of the fruits and does not have time to ripen. 90005 90002 I took myself for a rule: to feed and water raspberries as often (in fact, the same days) as tomatoes. And I feed raspberries from early spring. I orient myself again on tomato seedlings, which grows on the window.I feed seedlings — I go to the garden and feed raspberries (the first time * — even in the snow, I scatter urea). Further every two weeks I give either a complex fertilizer or an infusion of grass from a barrel. 90005 90002 The result did not keep itself waiting. Raspberry grows beautiful thick shoots, early ovaries are laid and already in August — red berries. 90005 90002 Summarize. Raspberries must be taken care of as carefully as tomatoes. One difference. After harvesting, we immediately remove the bushes of tomatoes, and this ends the nursing.90005 90002 In raspberries, we leave the stems to the leaves, as the leaves help to build roots and lay the buds of the new year. Only when the leaves fall, we cut off all the raspberry stalks level with the ground. Until the winter we continue the care: we pour into the dry autumn and mulch the roots for the winter. 90005 90002 Autumn harvest of a patchwork raspberry is a wonderful treat! The berries are large and absolutely clean, because in the fall there are no pests in raspberries.Cherish raspberries, like tomatoes, and she will give you a sweet berry! 90005 90002 90003 VINTAGE OF REPAIRANT RASPBERRY 90004 90005 90002 Augustine, Atlant, August’s miracle, Indian summer-2, Diamond, Bryansk marvel, Hercules, Daughter of Hercules, Eurasia, Firebird, Dawn of the evening, Golden domes, Golden autumn, Handsome Sadko, Merchant, Reliable, Orange miracle, Autumn beauty , Penguin, Polka, Ruby necklace, Cap of Monomakh, Elegant and others. 90005 90002 I. Petrenko 90005 90246 90002 © Author: Lyubov Lagutochkina 90005 90304 90305 ORDER QUALITATIVE AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER HOUSEHOLD AND COTTAGE GOODS.PRICES OF COOKIES. TESTED! JUST VIEW YOURSELF AND BE SURPRISED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>> 90306 90005 90308 Below other entries on the topic «Dacha and garden — with their own hands» 90309 90083 Repaired raspberries in Siberia — the secret of growing: Growing repairing raspberries in Siberia Repairing … 90084 90083 What is the difference between raspberry remontant and ordinary? : DIFFERENCE IN CARE BETWEEN USUAL … 90084 90083 Repair raspberry to frost (+ VIDEO): Raspberry REPAIR — FRUIT BEFORE… 90084 90083 Autumn pruning raspberry raspberry: How to cut repair raspberries in the fall Do not … 90084 90083 Variety of raspberry raspberry Veronica: Cultivation of patchwork raspberry — variety … 90084 90083 Growing raspberries on the technology of «long escape «: Harvest raspberries in May or … 90084 90083 The secret of coarse raspberries from the gardener + expert advice: LARGE Raspberry — MY SECRETS To Harvest … 90246 90324 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.90309 90324 Let’s be friends! 90309 90084.