Утепление пола над холодным подвалом: Утепление пола над холодным подвалом

Утепление подвального перекрытия – над теплым и холодным подвалом

Утепление частного дома или дачи – это комплексное мероприятие. Недостаточно утеплить стены и крышу, значительные теплопотери связаны с подвальным помещением (подвал, погреб, подполье).

Независимо от того, деревянный или кирпичный дом, подвал должен быть эффективно изолирован от сырости и холода. Если хотите, чтобы пол в доме был теплым и меньше тратить
ресурсов на отопление, в рамках этой статьи рассмотрим, как правильно утеплить
перекрытие над подвалом своими руками и сделать жизнь в коттедже теплой и
приятной.

К сведению, рассмотренные ниже способы подходят для утепления перекрытия подвала в гараже.

 

Подвалы по функциональному назначению можно разделить на два вида:

• чистовое помещение. К таким подвалам относят те, в которых
  обустроены спортзалы, прачечные, мастерские и прочие служебные комнаты. Как
  правило, такие подвалы отапливаются;

• подсобное помещение. В таком подвале (погребе) хранятся
  различные вещи, хозяйственный инвентарь, инструмент, заготовки на зиму и т.п.
  Здесь температура существенно ниже, нежели в помещениях сверху.

Исходя из этого разделения, следует отметить, что и
утепляться такие подвалы будут по-разному. Однако требования, выдвигаемые к
утеплителю, едины.

Качественный утеплитель должен отвечать таким характеристикам:

1. быть безопасным с точки зрения пожарной опасности, экологии
   и эксплуатации;
2. не создавать повышенную нагрузку на здание;
3. создавать предпосылки для снижения расходов на отопление
   здания.

Утепление перекрытия над отапливаемым подвалом

Если подвал отапливается, все его стены утеплены, а разность
температур между расположенными друг над другом комнатами не превышает пары градусов,
то утепление подвального перекрытия производится аналогично тому, как утеплить
межэтажные перекрытия. А поскольку по полу стелить утеплитель проще и дешевле,
нежели по потолку подвала, то работы выполняются именно таким образом.

Полезный совет: обустраивая стяжку поверх утеплителя нужно
отдать предпочтение жесткому теплоизоляционному материалу – пенополистиролу,
пенопласту или базальтовой вате высокой плотности.

Если в качестве утеплителя выбрана минеральная вата низкой плотности или пенопласт плотностью не более 15%, то лучше обустроить деревянные лаги, поместить утеплитель между ними, наслать черновой пол. А уж затем стелить чистовое напольное покрытие.

Утепление перекрытия над неотапливаемым подвалом

Совсем другое дело, если подвал не отапливается. Может это и
способствует более долгому сохранению продуктов, но и на эффективность
отопления также влияет. Ведь часть тепла уходит через подвал. Чтобы
оптимизировать расходы на обогрев нужно выполнить утепление перекрытия над подвалом.

Порядок выполнения работ представлен на рисунках схемах.

Как видно из рисунка, утепление подвального перекрытия
производится как со стороны дома (снаружи), так и со стороны подвала (изнутри).
Т.е., утепляется потолок помещения.

• Для первого случая порядок выполнения работ аналогичен
  утеплению межэтажных перекрытий. Только рекомендуемая толщина утеплителя должна
  составить не менее 10 см. (в зависимости от вида и плотности). Для утепления по полу можно использовать пенопласт, пенополистирол, базальтовую вату (минвата) или сыпучие утеплители (керамзит). Таким образом утепляется подвал в процессе строительства или, когда есть возможность снять напольное покрытие.

• Во втором случае, когда нет возможности утеплить по полу
  выполняется утепление подвального перекрытия по потолку. И прежде чем
  приступить к выполнению работ, нужно выяснить, что составляет основу потолка –
  деревянные балки или бетонная плита перекрытия. Подход к утеплению будет
  отличаться для каждого случая.

Утепление по деревянным балкам (лагам)

Деревянные лаги или балки перекрытия обычно используются в
малоэтажном строительстве и закрывают подвал небольшой площади. Кроме того, у
дерева показатель теплопередачи ниже. Это значит, что через древесину проходит
меньше тепла.

Технология утепления подвала по деревянному перекрытию:

• на потолке устанавливают балки или лаги с шагом в 60 см. или 1 м. В зависимости от вида утеплителя. Так, ширина полосы базальтовой ваты составляет 60 см, пенопласта и
  пенополистирола – 1 м.;

• на потолке фиксируют супердиффузионную мембрану или
  пароизоляционную пленку. При этом, чтобы избежать появления мостиков холода
  пленку нужно завести на стену, как минимум на 10 см. Кроме того, пленка
  обязательно стелиться внахлест, а места соединения проклеиваются специальным
  скотчем. Его особенность – способность надежно защитить пленку и утеплитель от
  попадания влаги внутрь. Фиксируется пленка деревянными рейками.

Совет: пленка пароизоляции крепятся финишным слоем со
стороны более теплого помещения. Гидро- и пароизоляционная пленка используется
при любом виде утеплителя.

• закрывая балки (лаги) пленкой нужно оставить свободными 10-15 см. с каждого конца лаги.
  Это нужно для того, чтобы влажность древесины могла регулироваться естественным
  образом;

• располагают теплоизоляционный материал, толщина которого зависит
  от вида и плотности (как правило, должна составлять 10-12 см). Фиксируется
  материал с использованием сетки или проволоки. Чтобы избежать появления
  мостиков холода в месте стыка стены и потолка нужно завести утеплитель на 5 см. на стену;

Совет: выполняя утепление между железными или бетонными, а
не деревянными балками следует уложить утеплитель в два слоя или дополнительно
утеплить железо или бетон.

• выполняют отделку потолка. Утеплитель закрывается плитой
  осб, гипсокартоном. А в случае с жестким утеплителем можно зафиксировать сетку
  и зашпатлевать.

Утепление по бетонному перекрытию

В данном случае целесообразно использовать жесткий
утеплитель. Он фиксируется на бетонном перекрытии подвала, с помощью клея и
дюбелей. Затем закрывается сеткой и штукатурится.

Если вы отдали предпочтение мягкому утеплителю, то на
потолок нужно набить деревянные рейки или оцинкованный профиль для гипсокартона
(толщина профиля должна быть равной толщине утеплителя), закрыть его
пароизоляционной пленкой, уложить теплоизоляцию и выполнить декоративную отделку
потолка.

Надеемся, данная информация поможет вам решить, как утеплить перекрытие над подвалом и снизить потери тепла в доме.

Самые лучшие посты

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The source of moisture we need to protect against is exterior ground and concrete, not interior relative humidity.90003 90111 For help in 90028 choosing from different types of panel insulation see here 90029 and for a 90028 guide all about insulating exterior walls correctly from the outside, see here 90029 — from the EcoHome 90028 Green Building Guides 90029 90112 90002 Further reading: 90003 .90000 Preventing mold when you insulate your basement 90001 90002 Basements do not have to be moldy, that is the first thing to realize. 90003 90004 90005 It’s easy to build a basement better, or to finish an existing basement correctly 90006, we just need to realize that they behave differently than above grade walls and to build accordingly to effectively deal with the humidity found underground — 90005 and by doing so , stop the conditions that promote mold growth 90006.90009 90004 Depending on the age of your home, you may have some interior basement insulation or maybe none. You may have an exterior damp-proofing spray on foundation walls but likely not a proper drainage mat and perimeter drain or basement flood prevention measures. 90009 90004 Outside upgrades are the ideal correction given the way basement walls were left exposed in the past; however, unless you have serious structural problems or plan to excavate for other reasons, that can be an enormous extra cost for an interior renovation project.It is much more affordable to deal with most humidity issues inside the building. The basement insulation solutions proposed here are for those that have no exterior protection. 90009 90002 What causes mold to grow in basements? 90003 90004 90005 Mold can grow on virtually any organic material 90006 as long as the moisture levels it likes and oxygen are present. 90009 90004 Because mold eats or digests what it is growing on, it can damage a building and its furnishings. If left unchecked, mold eventually can cause structural damage to building materials and can cause health problems — that’s why we do not want mold in our basements! 90009 90004 Specifically we can prevent damage to buildings and building contents in the basement areas, save money and avoid these potential health problems by controlling moisture, where humidity in the air condenses, and by so eliminating mold growth.90009 90004 90005 Quick Fact Check: 90006 Eliminating all mold and mold spores indoors is virtually impossible, but controlling indoor moisture and the hidden moisture within basement wall assemblies will control the growth of indoor mold. 90009 90004 According to the EPA, indoor relative humidity (RH) in homes should be kept below 60 percent — ideally between 30 percent and 50 percent, In addition to preventing mold forming, maintaining the correct humidity levels may also have a bonus effect — discouraging pests such as cockroaches, silverfish (bristletails) and dust mites from populating the man-cave! 90009 90004 So, Step one, getting a humidity meter and tracking the relative humidity level in your basement is the first part of understanding the mold problem in any home or basement.90009 90004 Compare budget options and special offers for manual humidity meters here (we’ve tried and like the ThermoPro TP 50) 90009 90004 Or if you have a 90005 Smart home 90006 or are heading that way, 90005 See here to compare humidity meters online including smart trackers and alarms and find special offers and reviews 90006 90009 90002 Where the moisture is, and where it wants to go: 90003 90004 90005 The key to building better mold free basements 90006 is to understand that there is a completely different set of challenges facing walls built below grade.90009 90004 The greatest source of moisture to contend with above grade is the warm, humid air generated by cooking, washing and simply breathing. Below grade, it is that big porous sponge called concrete that is sucking up water from the wet ground. 90009 90004 A different problem demands a different solution — wearing a raincoat will keep you dry when standing in a cold rain, but it will not keep you dry when jogging under a hot sun. And unfortunately for many homeowners, the way basements were finished for the last few decades is about as logical as jogging in a raincoat.90009 90004 Above grade, walls are designed to dry to the exterior. That is impossible below grade, but for some reason we still build as if it were. Despite the fact that interior vapour barriers in below grade wall assemblies are commonplace, frustrated building scientists insist that installing them is the worst thing you could possibly do down there. 90009 90052 Basement renovations demonstrating mold growth in internal stud wall © Ecohome 90004 Above is a photo of a basement being repaired after flooding.The mold damage you see is from longterm moisture exposure, not the one-time flooding event. This was a typical basement wall assembly, with a stud wall directly against the foundation followed by fiberglass insulation and a vapour barrier. Notice the difference between the studs against the foundation and the studs that formed an interior division wall; the vapour barrier did not protect the exterior wall from damage and mold growth. It caused the damage by prevented the wall from drying to the interior and instead sealed the moisture in.90009 90004 As one of the foremost authorities on healthy basement construction, Professor John Straube of the University of Waterloo dubbed this typical type of wall assembly a «mold incubation chamber». For further convincing on the topic, read ‘Built wrong from the start’ by Joseph Lstiburek of Building Science Corporation. 90009 90002 Better basement insulation techniques: 90003 90004 90005 The materials and design you choose are very important to prevent mold 90006 and should be appropriate for the environment they are destined to inhabit.Be very careful how and where you install wood and fiberglass insulation in basements (If you must), and be sure they will not see prolonged exposure to moisture or contact with humid surfaces if you do not want them to go moldy. 90009 90002 Spray polyurethane foam (SPUF): 90003 90004 90005 When SPUF works out, it can be one of the better performing products 90006 in basement applications. Being sprayed directly onto concrete walls, it ensures an even and total protection. SPUF has a high R value per inch, acts as an air barrier and a vapour barrier.However, it has been known to shrink after application, leaving air gaps and a lack of thermal protection. 90009 90004 Another downside to the original SPUF is that some blowing agents have a high global warming potential (GWP). For this reason, we like to explore less harmful alternatives whenever possible — though 90005 * January 2018 update: new blowing agents for spray foam virtually eliminate green house gases, read more here. 90006 90009 90004 Probably the most worrisome problem (as reported by a SPUF installer) is that there is a great temptation for installation contractors to tinker with the chemical mix a bit, giving it more volume with less material, which is more profitable for the installers.There are not a lot of reported cases of this, but when it goes wrong it goes very wrong. Personally, I would not let someone spray foam in my house without some pretty good references that I followed up. 90009 90004 All that said, here’s how to proceed if you plan to insulate a basement with SPUF: 90009 90077 90078 90005 Frame a 2×4 stud wall at 24 «centres 90006 leaving a gap of at least one inch between studs and concrete. 90081 90078 90005 Shim up bottom plates 90006 to allow for water to pass under in cases of mild flooding.90081 90078 90005 Have foam sprayed against the concrete wall 90006. The space left between concrete and studs is crucial to allow a seamless blanket of insulation to create an air and vapour barrier. Unprotected wood touching concrete will wick moisture and eventually rot. One inch of SPUF will solve your problems; four or 5 inches will reduce heat loss and save you money in the long run. 90081 90078 90005 Have insulation blown onto rim joists 90006 if it is not already done. 90081 90078 90005 Foam must be covered by drywall 90006 for fire protection.90081 90078 90005 Do not install an additional vapour barrier behind drywall 90006; latex paint will act in this capacity. 90081 90102 90103 Spray foam or SPUF being installed correctly on basement walls © Bala Structures 90004 There have been a few nightmare cases reported where a SPUF installation went very wrong and apparently made homes uninhabitable. Given the fact that application involves a wet spray that hardens on surfaces, it is very difficult to remove. 90009 90004 These reported cases are rare, but if you are at all concerned, there are alternatives to spray foam for insulating basements listed below that work well in the battle against moldy basements.90009 90002 EPS (Expanded Polystyrene), XPS (Extruded Polystyrene), Mineral wool: 90003 90004 90005 SPUF is quite expensive; so rigid insulation panels and a 2×4 wall with batt insulation can be a much more affordable option 90006 — but you need to know the right techniques for a succesful and mold-free wall assembly for a basement application — read on! 90009 90004 Rigid insulation board against concrete adds R value, breaks the thermal bridge and raises the temperature of the stud wall, which helps prevent moist air from condensing.The stud wall allows for the installation of wiring, additional insulation and drywall. 90009 90004 Drywall should be attached directly to studs, latex paint will act as a vapour retarder slowing any outward moisture migration while also allowing walls to dry inwards. 90009 90004 You may hear that EPS is somewhat moisture permeable; this is true, but only slightly so and not enough to be a problem. According to Professor Straube, two inches of EPS has a perm rating in the range of 60-75 ng, or 1-1.25 US perms, which is right on the cusp of what is defined by building code as a suitable vapour barrier (60ng and under). 90009 90004 At that level of moisture permeability, an almost immeasurably small amount of moisture will be able to migrate into the wall, but with no interior vapour barrier it will pass through harmlessly. EPS, XPS and mineral wool are unharmed by moisture, and perhaps most importantly, EPS and XPS are unlikely to provide a breeding ground for mold. 90009 90004 A polyethelene barrier can be included without causing harm (as seen below), as long as it is behind the stud wall, not in front.Specified correctly for basement Radon Mitigation, this will also act as a radon gas barrier to protect indoor air quality, and it will satisfy building inspectors who are not accustomed to seeing a wall without a vapour barrier and may not allow you to continue. 90009 90124 Radon gas prevention and remedial insulation in basements © Ecohome 90004 Note: the above diagram shows an ideal and complete basement renovation beginning with breaking and removing the existing concrete floor. Most older basements have very limited head room and owners are often reluctant to lower it even more by adding insulation to the floor.It also allows for the addition of a radon evacuation stack, which is the perforated tube and T-junction in this image. 90009 90004 By removing the concrete floor and maybe some of the dirt below it, you have room to insulate properly. Removing existing concrete is not as tough as it sounds — it can usually be smashed with a sledge hammer and removed in pieces. It does involve some hard work and heavy lifting, but the end result will not only be a more efficient and comfortable home, but a more valuable one at a time of resale and less likely to create the conditions that are best avoided — high humidity plus likely condensation points — both factors in producing a moldy, unhealthy basement.90009 90002 The ideal Basement wall assembly to prevent mold growth: 90003 90077 90078 90005 Install two inches of rigid insulation board directly against concrete 90006. It is easiest to attach it to the wall with a couple of concrete nails or even some adhesive while you frame walls. 90081 90078 90005 Frame an interior 2×4 stud wall at 24 inch centres 90006, pressed tightly against the foam panels. 90081 90078 90005 Install mineral wool batts in the cavities 90006. Mineral wool is unharmed by moisture, and if it gets wet it will retain its shape and R value when it dries; fiberglass is not so resilient.90081 90078 90005 Lastly, install drywall and paint it with a latex paint 90006 only. 90081 90102 90004 This technique of rigid and batt insulation may require a few more steps, but it can offer you a greater R value per dollar invested than SPUF and it allows you to do a lot more (or all) of the work yourself. 90009 90004 For reasons beyond just performance, we prefer mineral wool or EPS over XPS. XPS has a slightly higher R value per inch, but like SPUF, the blowing agents are exponentially more harmful, about 200 times more than EPS.90009 90002 What else helps prevent mold growing in basements? Ventilation! 90003 90004 90005 Another considerable improvement in keeping basements mold-free is to ensure adequate ventilation 90006. Whilst cracking open a window if your basement has them is fine if the humidity conditions outside are favorable, that’s pretty hard to judge; so a better alternative is to choose a good quality discounted HRV or ERV system with an automatic electronic humidity control. 90009 90004 Along with removing contaminants from the air, there are health consequences from having either too much or too little moisture in our homes.There are bacteria, viruses, moulds and mites that will show up on either end of the spectrum if your air is either too humid or too dry. 90009 90004 As the EPA say, somewhere in the range of 35 to 50% relative humidity is generally assumed to be the best for avoiding most health risks and irritants. It’s high enough that you will not have cracked furniture, chapped lips or constant nose bleeds, and it’s not too damp for comfort, condensation or heat consumption issues. 90009 90004 If you’re in an older home sat above a basement, do not panic.What we write in these pages is meant to inspire ideas and solutions, not fear and anxiety. If you feel good, your basement smells good and your windows (and walls) are not dripping, relax! 90009 90004 However, if your basement has a certain musty smell, or telltale black mildew and mold marks in corners or behind furniture, for peace of mind consider buying a hydrometer to measure your indoor relative humidity, which will cost you maybe $ 20 to $ 30 at most hardware stores. If you have an issue, and the humidity levels are off the scale, then 90005 chances are you’ve got a moldy basement even if you can not see it yet… 90006 90009 90169 90005 To be certain, get a humidity monitor and track humidity levels, see here 90006 90172 90169 Top Tips: For a healthy, mold-free & comfortable basement: 90172 90175 Further reading for basement mold prevention: 90176 .90000 Should I insulate my basement? 90001 90002 The basement is one of those spots in a house that people often ignore. It’s a place to store things and then just pretend it does not exist. Do you lie awake at night asking, «Should I insulate my basement?» Ignoring that question can be expensive, especially since insulating a basement can be one of the easiest ways to improve your home’s energy efficiency, especially if it’s an older home. In addition to reducing heating costs, insulating a basement can keep rooms above it more comfortable and prevent moisture problems, insect infestation and radon infiltration.So, to help you along, we asked the tough question and offer some basement insulation tips to help you get started. 90003 90004 90005 Should I insulate my basement? 90006 90007 90002 Deciding whether or not to insulate your basement is not just a matter of asking if it’s necessary; it’s also a matter of deciding what part or how much of your basement you should insulate. For now, we’re going to assume that your home is already built, i.e., that anyone building a home today would insulate his basement as a matter of course because it’s the energy-efficient approach.So, given that we’re talking about an existing basement, you can opt to tackle your entire basement or decide to go with insulating basement walls, ceilings or floors. Here are some points to consider while deciding if insulating a basement is in your home improvement future. 90003 90010 90011 90005 How much insulation do you currently have? 90006 A home energy audit can help get you started. If the answer is none, then you can leap right down to basement insulation tips. 90014 90011 90005 What is the R-value of your existing insulation? 90006 R-value is how much your insulation resists heat flow-the thicker the insulation, the higher the R-value and overall effectiveness of the insulation.Learn more about R-value in our video. Choosing the right R-value for your space is important and will also affect the kind of insulation you choose. 90014 90011 90005 Do you have a basement moisture problem? 90006 If your basement floods at all or has any water leaks, experts say to address that before considering any insulation solutions. That’s because any insulation you might install on, say, the walls would potentially get ruined with excessive moisture. Foam insulation, for instance, is a common material for basement walls.Foam and water do not mix. 90014 90023 90002 But, the biggest reason to say yes to the question «Should I insulate my basement?» is this: Virtually every basement has some kind of heat loss, and heat loss means you’re paying more to heat your home. Erik North explains the details in his Energy Auditing blog: It’s about the law of thermodynamics. Heat (not hot air) moves from higher temperatures to lower temperatures, and it moves faster when the temperature difference across a material is greater.Example: Your home is a cozy 70 degrees F. That higher heat radiates into the basement, which is probably about 55 degrees, give or take a few degrees, depending on where you live. The basement foundation, meanwhile, radiates the heat further outside where, in the winter, let’s say it’s 20 degrees. Final result? Heat loss and wasted energy that you’ve paid for. 90003 90002 Insulating a basement seems a fairly safe choice, then, on some level. The critical issue, though, is where to insulate. Is adding insulation for basement walls the right step? Insulating basement floors? Here’s what the experts say.90003 90004 Insulating basement walls 90007 90002 The Green Building Advisor says that insulating basement walls is a smart move if you live in Climate Zone 3 or colder. (That’s basically anything north of most of New Mexico and Alabama, as well as Oklahoma, Arkansas and South Carolina.) Adding insulation to or improving inadequate insulation on your interior basement walls can save you anywhere from $ 280 a year if you live in Washington, DC, to $ 390 annually if you live in Buffalo, New York (these are using natural gas rates of.$ 72 / therm.) 90003 90002 Here are some points to consider when insulating basement walls: 90003 90010 90011 Do not use rigid foam if your basement has stone and mortar walls. The Green Building Advisor says only closed-cell spray polyurethane foam will work on this kind of surface. 90014 90011 Interior insulation reduces the usable interior space by a few inches, according to Energy.gov, so plan accordingly. 90014 90011 Many insulation types require a fire-rated covering because they release toxic gases if ignited.90014 90011 Energy.gov recommends vapor diffusion retarders to ensure moisture is contained and does not impede whatever insulation is installed. 90014 90023 90002 90045 90003 90002 Source: http://naturalgasefficiency.org 90003 90004 Material types for insulating basement walls 90007 90002 Energy.gov recommends the following insulation for basement walls in existing homes: 90003 90010 90011 90005 Blanket (batt and roll) insulation: 90006 This can be made of a variety of materials, including fiberglass, mineral (rock or slag wool), plastic fibers and natural fibers.It’s typically fitted between studs, joists and beams. It’s generally less expensive than some other insulation types. 90014 90011 90005 Foam board or rigid foam insulation: 90006 This insulation can be made of polyurethane, polyisocyanurate, or polystyrene. It has a high insulating value compared to its thickness, Energy.gov says. Note: Interior applications require gypsum board as well to meet fire codes. 90014 90011 90005 Loose-fill insulation: 90006 Comprised of cellulose, fiberglass or mineral, this type of insulation can be useful for adding insulation to finished areas, particularly areas that are oddly-shaped or that have obstacles such as beams.90014 90011 90005 Sprayed foam insulation 90006 -Energy.gov says this is a particularly good choice for those who want a finished basement space when insulating a basement is done. Insulation materials can include cementitious, phenolic, polyisocyanurate and polyurethane. As its name implies, it’s sprayed into place. 90014 90023 90002 North advises against fibrous insulations such as fiberglass, rock wool or cellulose because they can be moisture traps. He recommends closed-cell spray foam and XPS foam board.90003 90004 Insulating basement floors 90007 90002 Determining that moisture is not an issue is critical before starting any basement floor insulation project. HGTV.com recommends the following before insulating basement floors: 90003 90010 90011 If the floor is concrete, clean it and seal with epoxy once dry. 90014 90011 Install sub-floor to make room for basement floor insulation. 90014 90011 Add insulation. HGTV suggests fiberglass, foam board, or modular flooring from a basement finishing system.90014 90011 If you’re interested in finishing the basement to make it living space, now would be the time to add any in-floor heating system. It will keep the space warmer in the winter and also likely decrease the energy use of any utilities in the basement because the heat keeps the space warmer beyond the mere addition of basement floor insulation. 90014 90023 90004 Insulating basement ceiling 90007 90002 The verdict on whether or not to insulate basement ceilings is up for some discussion.Energy.gov recommends focusing on basement walls over basement ceilings when looking into insulating a basement. North is also skeptical about insulating basement ceilings. Since insulation slows the transfer of heat, he worries that insulating basement ceilings can actually reduce the temperature of a basement so much that there can be issues with pipes freezing and / or bursting. He is more of a fan of insulating basement walls over ceilings for this reason. 90003 90002 House Logic suggests looking at how you are going to use the space when deciding whether to insulate a basement ceiling or add basement floor insulation instead.They suggest adding insulation for basement walls if you plan to use the space as a living space; for example, perhaps finishing it off as a playroom. Insulate basement ceilings if you’re merely looking to mitigate heat loss and potentially lower your energy costs. They recommend using fiberglass batt insulation, which fits more easily among the many pipes and joists found in most basement ceilings. 90003 90002 And there you have it: top tips for insulating a basement. For more tips in our Home Energy Savings Series, check out our post on attic insulation.90003 .